The vehicle's emergency lights turn on on their own?

Hi,

Sound like a job for Ghost Busters, lol. On a serious note, has there been moisture in the car do you think there could be water in the switch? When you hit the switch does it feel normal in its on and off positions? Here is the wiring for your hazard circuit:

Yes Driverbilly, it absolutely can one of the sensors could be acting up probably in one of the doors. You can try to spray some wd-40 in the key hole and up into the mechanism and see if you get a change. Give me minute and I will get the alarm system information for you.

Another thing we need to look at is the key-less entry. Does you fob work? If so how is the range of it can you lock and unlock it in your house?

Here is some useful information on the door lock system:

Also, check your battery and make sure it's holding good voltage and not running down. If the battery starts to go bad the doors and alarm systems can start to act up.
Let me know.
Tom

So in the beginning you must have had low voltage. Now you have a replacement in there and its a new one? On that first day, Did anything else happen? Was the car worked on or did anything out of the ordinary take place?

Okay, I'm adding some images and testing procedures for the hazard system from them you should be able to figure out if it's the switch itself, the BCM or wiring. First though I want you to test the switches ground. The black wire coming from the back of the switch is it ground. Use a VOM and test it, you should have zero ohms from the wire to chassis. If it's good follow the testing steps listed below.
Let me know how you do.

No you wont need the fob for these tests but you will need a volt ohm meter (VOM). For the ground coming from the switch if you cant get a ohms tester. If you can follow it to where it goes a visual inspection will work, meaning finding the spot where the black wire connects to the chassis. It may be attached with a screw or a bolt to the upper fire wall on the inside above the pedals or some metal part of the dash or even any metal on the steering column. How is the carpet under the pedals? Does it move around, is there a mud carpet on top of the floor carpet sometimes a floor cover that slips around can work its way forward interfering with the pedals on how far down they push but also if there are wires running up there the cover/carpet can mess with them. Look up under the dash up against the firewall and anywhere your feet or carpet can hit something and look to see if there are wires that don't connect to something. Black is the color we are concerned with currently.

The truck unlatching meaning it's unlocking and actually opening or just unlocking. Okay, lets isolate some ckts and see if we get a change. Below I attached the fuse block under the dash. The red labeled one is for your lift gate 10 amp. Remove this one and see if the flashers go on. Separately remove the one labeled in blue this one is your key less entry. Runs the same test on this ckt. Everything involved with this issue is controlled by the Body Control Module so either its getting a bad signal or the BCM is bad.

It does sound like the BCM is bad. To confirm the issue here is a video on how to scan the CAN system and instructions on how to replace the BCM in the diagrams below:

https://youtu.be/InIlnsjOVFA

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Hello, yes that's the fuse relay box and image a couple replies back has the two things marked you need to verify are good.
Tom

If the fuses are good I am leaning toward the BCM. Did you try the CAN scan?

Hi Driverbilly,
I too am leaning toward the Body Control Module. If you have any question about the CAN scanning procedure from the attachments let us know. We can do a live video chat to get you through it
Tom