Electrical issue/fob

DIVIDES

MEMBER
2012 MINI COUNTRYMAN
4 CYL
TURBO
4WD
AUTOMATIC
84,000 MILES

Vehicle listed above is an S model. There is a noise under the right side of the dash which sounds like electrical. Fob is hard to come out of the slot, both fobs are the same. Checked battery and its 12.24. Did a load test and it pulls it down to the edge of the green area. Can you confirm this is supposed to have a ln H6, 48 battery, 615 cca? Drove it from auction to my house with no issues. They had to jump it though. Got home turned it off turned it back on without a jump. But I have a clinch its electrical. Has several codes in there but that could have been from when it was low on volts. Deleted only engine code it had which was low voltage but still have the traction and brake lights on. Also, I made sure it is in park. Someone removed the too part of the shifter trim before maybe to put it in neutral when it was not working.

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Wednesday, November 3rd, 2021 AT 11:31 AM

24 Replies

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,645 POSTS

Hi,

Is the sound loud enough for you to record and upload? I just tried looking up the OEM codes on the scan tool, and they are not listed for this year, make, and model.

Let me know.

Joe

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Wednesday, November 3rd, 2021 AT 8:17 PM

DIVIDES

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898 POSTS

The sound is in the clip I attached.

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Thursday, November 4th, 2021 AT 6:27 AM

DIVIDES

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After trickle charging the battery, it says its 13v via voltmeter, and the load tester shows it above green but between the green and the other green in the red area. Once I do a load test it goes back to within the green area within the 12v. See pictures.

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Thursday, November 4th, 2021 AT 10:58 AM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
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The battery does appear good. As far as the noise, I listened again, and it sounds like one of the actuators related to the HVAC system. For example, a blend air door or mode door actuator. They are located under the dash on that side.

I attached a pic below showing locations. Have a helper hold his hand on one at a time to see if the clicking is felt.

Let me know.

Joe

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Thursday, November 4th, 2021 AT 6:59 PM

DIVIDES

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Different scanner, same results. Don't even know what or where to look as these codes are just strange, doesn't tell me what sensor needs work or what area in the dsc system.

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Thursday, November 4th, 2021 AT 7:22 PM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,645 POSTS

Hi,

Since the codes are specific to the dynamic stability control system, do this first. Connect the scan tool and check wheel speed sensor signals. The codes could be set by a faulty sensor.

If you don't have a live data scanner, here is a link that explains how to test a wheel speed sensor.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/abs-wheel-speed-sensor-test

From what I have researched, if it is a wheel speed sensor, it is likely one of the rear ones.

Let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe

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Thursday, November 4th, 2021 AT 7:36 PM

DIVIDES

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Yes, I have live data, I will drive it tomorrow. Thanks

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Thursday, November 4th, 2021 AT 7:42 PM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

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109,645 POSTS

Happy to help. Let me know the results. Everything with the wheel speed sensor is tied into the stability control. Also, let me know about the actuators possibly making the noise you hear.

Take care,

Joe

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Thursday, November 4th, 2021 AT 8:44 PM

DIVIDES

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All sensors work. Sas calibration is successful, but traction and brake lights are on. Fuse F35 is good which feeds the dsc sensor. It says sensor is under passenger seat but couldn't find anything. Only carpet with no open fods. I found two covers on passenger side floor not sure what they are for. Someone may have tried to fix something.

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Friday, November 5th, 2021 AT 8:03 AM

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Apparently, that cover with numbers has to do with the shifter selector. It may have been removed when they were getting it in neutral.

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Friday, November 5th, 2021 AT 8:08 AM

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Found the yaw rate sensor under seat, how do I test it or test the wiring?

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Friday, November 5th, 2021 AT 9:14 AM

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Has power and ground, and 2 other wires just read 2.3 using the probe.

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Friday, November 5th, 2021 AT 3:06 PM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
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Hi,

I am showing nothing for testing the sensor. I do know that if anyone has replaced the DSC. Since you indicated it appears someone may have replaced things already, the problem may be simple.

When the DSC is replaced, a specific program must be used to encode the parameters for the DSC system. If this isn't done, the problem you are experiencing is the likely result.

Is your scan tool able to scan the entire can-bus? If there is an issue with the YAW it should indicate it.

Take a look at the pic below for encoding. Have you ever seen this before? Also, do you feel the

Let me know.

Joe

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Friday, November 5th, 2021 AT 8:04 PM

DIVIDES

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How do I remove the DSC unit? Want to send it for diagnosis.

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Monday, November 8th, 2021 AT 7:38 AM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,645 POSTS

Hi,

If you are removing the DSC control unit, it will require coding when reinstalled.

I attached the directions below. Take a look through them and let me know if you have questions or if there is anything I can do to help.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

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Monday, November 8th, 2021 AT 5:44 PM

DIVIDES

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I thought it will only need coding if I put a different one in there?

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Monday, November 8th, 2021 AT 5:48 PM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

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That is correct. Let me know if I can help.

Joe

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Monday, November 8th, 2021 AT 5:57 PM

DIVIDES

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So, I decided to pull my older maxisys which can program things. Put the sensor back and went to start it and battery was at 3v, so something maybe draining it. Put a jumper on it and got it running. Looked in the scanner and found several dsc resetting, calibrations, etc. Did them all and the lights went off. Check engine was still there even though there were no codes. Looked everywhere and only found a code under CAS, code A0B6. Left it few minutes running and the lights came back, scanned it, and only found 5DB4 for longitudinal no calibration. Deleted and did the calibrations all over again and everything went off. Drove it 5 miles everything still good. Turned it off and on several times still okay. I have a new sensor on the way anyways I will try it and see if they come back. Pulling the dang key out is still taking more effort than it should. That interlock code must be a problem somewhere under the shifter.
Here is also a question, is it possible for a bad battery to just drain on its own? I did the testing on it as I indicated and was good.

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Tuesday, November 9th, 2021 AT 9:59 AM

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I think the pieces on the shifter interlock are broken, the white lever is just loose and there are 2 pieces I see on the floor. The yellow piece is missing part of it. Can you provide info on how to replace the interlock assembly?

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