Electrical issue after battery drained and possibly over charging the battery

Hello,

I'm back on track to find some answers. Thank you for what you sent.

I had the battery fully charged and tested. It's fine.

I looked at all three different fuse blocks and individual fuses. A visual check of each fuse did solve one problem. Two of them were burnt and severed. One helped me with the accelerator and it now functions. The other was a radio fuse (single), but it didn't make any difference. It is still off.

The fuses I checked were visually checked as I didn't have a tester. I was told by the Toyota service department that there is a second fuse box in the engine department beneath the one that the pictures I have from you shows. They indicated to me that it wasn't a good idea for me to try to get to that fuse box?

The driver's side fuse block was quite disturbing, but I think I have it figured out. The schematic on the cap versus the instructions in the book didn't match well. However, the engine compartment fuse block on my van does not have the section 22-29 and 31-34 fuses. That was confusing as well.

At this point now, I still have the full list of the various vehicle components that don't work which I previously sent to you. The only exception now is that the accelerator can rev up the engine. Because there are so many things not working correctly, I don't feel I can drive the van safely.

I do wonder what the "hidden" fuse box in the engine compartment may contain. As to the missing sections of fuses in the book and the page you sent, I can only assume that the fuses and their functions were combined with something else.

What would you suggest now?

Thank you so much for your helpfulness! Before I tackle the window as you suggested, let me ask a couple of questions and explain one thing.

I did buy and use a fuse tester that lights up on all the three panels of fuses. Again, it was only visual before. All of them tested good except for number 37 and 38 in the engine compartment fuse block. This was strange since the headlights did work.

Here's another confession: In the engine compartment fuse block, number 1 and 2 have never been tested. These are a clear, purple box fuse(?), 30 amp. They don't seem to want to come out by pulling them, so I hadn't yet been able to figure out how to test them. So, how are they tested? Do I need to pull harder. I don't want to break them. Could they be the answer?

Now, several other questions.
1. Is there another fuse panel under the one shown in the engine compartment?
2. Where would the missing fuses in the engine compartment fuse block go to? The functions they protect are relevant functions listed to those missing fuse sections (22-29, 31-34).
3. Where is the location of the body control module you mentioned? How expensive is it? This is a 12 year old vehicle with high mileage. The dealer and a shop are quoting five plus hours at a minimum of $130.00 per hour to try to find the answer. I do have to weigh the benefits versus the losses.

By the way, my key fobs also don't work at all. Add that to the list of problems!

Thanks! I'll wait to hear your answers

Thank you for your recent response and the diagrams. I mentioned that I had found two fuses which didn't light up with my tester.#37 and 38. I replaced them with new ones, still no response. Remember, all the rest in the fuse panel light up.

I don't understand how the headlights can work when the fuses don't seem to be testing as functioning. Could this in any way hint as part of a solution to problems I am facing?

The vehicle, remember, had been running perfectly for the past year until the day I came out and found the battery dead. And after charging and having it tested, I found all the rest of these various functions that didn't work. So since the car readily starts and with the manual button I can shift gears, would it harm the vehicle to drive it? Or could that endanger or create new problems in additional systems.

Two things finally. One, I'm still not sure that you are realizing that my engine compartment fuse block doesn't have the fuses listed #22-29 or #31-34. There is no place for them. That area is covered by a long, clear narrow see through plastic cover in which I can see two long silver rods that extend from side to side. So? Either those functions listed in the owners manual were either rerouted elsewhere or somehow were not needed for my vehicle.

I did buy a Hanes Auto Repair Manual and note that fusible links, relays, and switches are among other possible problems to consider.

Finally, the key fobs do work to open and close the car and start the engine. I'd forgotten that the battery cables were removed!

The car starts readily and idles but leads to overheating, so it's possible the cooling fans on the radiator also do not work.

Frankly, I may be reaching the point where I don't have the skills or equipment to be successful unless you have some suggestions about those fusible links, relays, or switches that I could readily test.

Thank you for spending so much time trying to help me!

I have two pictures I took on my phone but can't seem to get them to send. The two pictures are of the fuse panel in the engine compartment. Number 2 is an enlargement of the special long plastic covered area I mentioned.

Could you please send me your phone number, so I could message them to you? We won't use your number for any other purpose unless you ask us to or share it with anyone else.

Thanks

Hi!
Toyotamandriver here. Sorry I haven't been in touch. I am just three weeks out after having Covid19. Now I must get back on track with my Toyota Sienna problem.

In our last conversation, you didn't answer my questions about two different sets of fuses in the under the hood box. These were fuses numbered 1 and 2. You thought they probably were max fuses. Can they be tested and how? The second set of fuses listed in the owner’s manual are covered up with a clear plastic cover and show no evidence of any kind of fuses under it. This is the set of fuses listed as 22-34 all with vital functions. How can these be tested?

Other things such as fusible links and relays, etc, are there simple tests to see if they work?

I did recharge the battery as you asked and later had it bench tested at an auto parts store. But not load tested, apparently, as I can’t drive the car anywhere (legally). One thing that was mentioned to me at the auto parts store was an unusual sparking at the negative post, which on other batteries on hand which he showed me does not occur. So, it could be possible that there is an internal short or problem in the battery. I am trying on this end to find someone who might know anything about internal battery problems. However, since the battery starts the engine and the car is running, then how would that affect all these other functional problems? The alternator?

Thanks again for your help!

Toyotamandriver