What you're describing is very common on all car brands and not necessarily related to arcing that terminal. The generator's output circuit is protected by a 120-amp "fuse link", but this can be confusing. When we refer to fuse links, we're referring to a short section of wire with a smaller diameter, spliced into the wire it's protecting. The insulation on fuse link wires is designed to not melt or burn. We rate them by gauge and color, not by current like we do with regular fuses. Fuse links on import models are usually regular fuses, but because of the high current and the stress that puts on the terminals, they're bolted into the fuse box. The diagram shows a regular fuse, and it is listed as a 120-amp, not by gauge, so it likely is a fuse.
If your 120-amp fuse link is blown, it's just the charging system that will be dead. Nothing else should be affected. The better suspect in this case is to follow the smaller battery positive wire to that under-hood fuse box and clean or tighten that connection. To a lesser degree, a loose or corroded battery cable are two more suspects.
If you don't find the problem at these three places, we can do it with voltage readings. You can use a digital voltmeter, but for this type of problem, an old fashioned test light is faster and can be more accurate. We need to start at the battery's positive post, then move to that cable clamp, then down the line to find where the 12 volts is lost. To make the location of the defect evident, it has to be occurring. The best way to do that is to turn on a few loads once the problem is occurring. I use head lights most often. Even though they won't work, we just need a place where substantial current is trying to flow.
Tell me what you find with those connections, then I'll go into more detail with the voltage tests.
Saturday, March 22nd, 2025 AT 1:59 PM
