No start, got new crank position sensor, new coil?

It was broken into and stripped key ignition so I start with a screwdriver but it started and would die unless I high revved it till warmed up then it ran fine. I replaced crank position sensor, air intake valve sensor and then I removed/cleaned O2 sensors, the upstream was dented from thieves with a quickie saw attempted to steal cat and exhaust sys. Then a short in harness. Now I get fire at coil when key is turned for 1-2 seconds then a click and no more fire and won't start. ASD? The black plastic collar with all wires that plug in under the steering wheel just spins and seems to make no difference as to drivability when it was running. I get 1 second of fire at distributor then click! Will it damage my PCM or other parts if I run a wire straight from battery to coil for fire? Must that ignition and collar part be replaced? Also, the 5v service wire, is that like a closed loop ground to all sensors? And if opened anyplace will cause problems all over?

I used a screwdriver to start it, that's the way it was when I bought it and started and drove fine(except for hard cold starts) until I started removing wiring to a factory h/d ac condenser unit and electric trailer brake wiring. I believe it's a relay that goes to the ASD or something that's shouting pwr off from time to coil.

I get no service lights when ign is turned on or turned over. Van has/had a pro air sys. And a elec. Trailor brake installed when new. I am removing/disconnecting these. So I have secondary relays fuses wired directly inside fusebox(tipm) is that what it's called? Tipm? Heres pertinent wiring info needed.
All wires to obd2 wrapped in steering and tore out. Van still ran ok once warmed up. Last month when I got it it wouldn't start, start & die, not stay running cold, I would have to rev continually until warm then it ran fine all day. So I decided to fix it and remove rewiring obd2 port. From battery + go's 2 relays mounted just above battery on firewall then to starter coil. It turns over strong. Look at pics, i've got 7 wires hanging under dash I need to identify.#1- blk/tan. #2-blk/prp #3- blk/wht #4- pnk/prp
#5-pnk #6- lt grn/wht, and last is yellow, I know it is the brake switch wire, what color wire does it go to? I know! It's a beast. All the heavy duty wiring to ac unit in rear I am yanking out or bypassing! I broke down for the manual that arrives in days

The switch in Pic is dash switch to AC blower fan speed switch.

The 2 relays are above battery are for power elec brake and 2nd AC condenser behind couch in rear of van, also I have a solid yellow wire from brake switch that is dead w/o brake and hot when brake is applied, where/what color wire does it go to and theres a blk/wht wire with a plastic clip on end(see it in pic) and I can not find where it go's!. This is the most confusing mess I've worked on. Does dodge color code wires systems? Example: all brown or brown stripped wires are lighting, all red or red stripped are power, all green or green stripped are AC, all orange or orange stripped are brake system ect ect. Thanks to anyone still trying to follow and help me. Mechanics are glutens :) thanks guys

In Pic is 2 fused 20amp and a relay under driver side of dash from engine compartment to rear elec brake sys and rear AC unit. Also see in pic there's a OBD1 port (i think it is) with wires hooked up, but I dont want to do anything but see what's hot and not, 2 are constantly hot others are not. Thanks if your still helping me. These things cause brain tumors I think. I dream of bundles of colors of wire all tangled and knotted! What a mess.

I will take a video when I get out to job. Thank you for any and all help. What is the best way to confirm power past starter? To test relay on alternator? Isn't there a starter relay? I'm braindamaged! I should be so far past that test but I'm not. So, confused I may dye my hair blue and pull it out.