Ecm problem

Does your cig port work because if that fuse is blown you cannot talk to you ECM etc. Also, if you replaced the ECM and BCM it wont start.You have to relearn the pass lock sensor. Also, did you put used BCM and ECM in it? What was wrong with you old ones?Because I highly doubt that they were both bad? Was the cluster working before you replaced them?

Also, the fuse box under the hood gets no current in the ignition and ecm fuses, the fuse box was also replaced, everything was replaced because the battery was connected backwards and the bcm, ecm and the stereo burned, and yes, all three are used.

Another question about relearning the passlock sensor, if it's not programed yet should the car just crank, or should nothing happen when I attempt to start the car?

It might crank for a split second then it won't crank anymore.

Car doesn't crank at all, passlock also turns off after turning the key on, only lights on are airbag and seat belt, with the scanner I can only get into the bcm, transmission, but between the ecm and the scanner there is no communication

Do you have power to the ecm fuse?have you checked all the fuses?I suspect there is s blown fuse or fuseable link somewhere.

Triple checked the fuses and only 9,10 and 11 fuses which are ECM/ETC (9) EMISS (10) AND IGN (11). When I try turning the key to ignition the only thing that happens is the dash lights turn off but it doesn't even try cranking the engine, fuel pump doesn't activate.

Also getting 2 codes from the IP cluster: VIN information error (B1015) and Class 2 data link fault (U1000) U1000 dissappear when I close the key and open it again, but appears after about 5 seconds

Have you checked to make sure there is power going into the underhood fuse box?Power at that main cable where the nut holds it down?

Yes there is

But there is no power to the ecm fuse in the underhood fuse box with the key in the run position?

There are two fuses that mention the ecm, fuse 1:ECM/TCM and fuse 9:ECM/ETC only fuse number 1 is getting power, and fuse number 9 only gets power if I bridge relay 29:POWERTRAIN

Have you tried swaping the relay with a known good one?You could have damaged who knows what when you reversed jumped the car.Just had a car thru my shop that was reversed jumped that caught fire and the battery exploded .

Already checked that.
When the computer is damaged, should the car still try starting?
And in the ignition switch, there is 5 cables, an orange (always has power) a blue cable and a grey one (get power when the key is open) a white one and a white/black cable (don't have any power, or ground to them, at any key position they don't get power, off, acc, I, or in the ignition. Could this be a problem to the car not starting?

Here's a picture of the cables.

Here's the problem the starting system goes thru computer's even to operate the starter.Do you have a scan tool that can read like the engine and body control module codes?I know you can't talk to the ecm and we don't know about if you can talk to the bcm?if the ecm isn't getting power it won't start regardless.If your getting power into the underhood fuse box itself and your not getting power to some of the fuses.Then your gonna have to starting looking at the wires going into the underhood fuse box.

My dad did the same thing to my Ion.. it wound up being a bad wire to the ignition switch..

when I try to read the codes on my car with my actron autoscanner cp9135 it show link error try again but I can use my scan tool on another car it will scan the codes and I can use some one else scan tool on my car it will read the codes why I am getting the link error?

So someone else's scan tool will read codes on your car? but your scan tool won't read codes on your car?If so then your scan tool does what Alot of generic diyer scan tools do Hit and miss on what cars they link to and read codes.I have had that happen before with one of my cheap generic code reader.

Also you have to be careful you don't get a China knock off one.Those no telling what cars they work on or how long they work.I have a autel Al319 it has a color screen reads some live engine data and works really good.It's from a USA seller marketer though.There are tons of the Chinese knock off ones that are cheaper and look the same but are junk.For the good ones like mine there under 40 for the USA market ones.Did you ever fix your p0128 code on that car?

no i havn't replace the thermostat yet the check engine light don't stay on all the time its just on an of sometime why does it come on and go of sometime if the thermostat is bad?

Because sometimes the thermostat holds back enough coolant flow till it opens for the code to not set and sometimes it doesn't.You have a bad thermostat I have replaced them before for that car and many other different makes and models for that code.

the engine is not over heating do i need special tool to replace the thermostat?

It's not a overheating code it's a running too cold code.No special tools needed.

i use my scan tool to read codes on a 1996 chevrolet pickup 1500, 2003 lincoln town car and it read the codes but i use it on a 2007 toyota camry, 2006 saturn and i get a link error do i need to buy a new scan tool? the autel A1319 scan you have how much does it cost and where can i buy it? i want one that is very unexpensive i would like to get one that read live engine data like the one you have.

Autel AL319 AutoLink OBD ll Code Reader https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013BJY12E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5VB3xb8HNQVHK
It's on Amazon it's got a color screen and reads some live engine data not all engine data.I like it I accidently bought a China knock off and it worked a couple of times then quit even turning on.