Codes c1552 and B2286

The codes wouldn't cause it but the problem that is setting the codes might.
The C1552 code is a failure in the power steering supply voltage while the B2286 is a power control ECU (not engine ECU, it's the smart electronics controller) fault. It is possible that both are related if the power or grounds are shared between them.
First thing on the power steering code would be to verify that there is power at the EPS fuse in the power center under the hood, it's an 80-amp fuse. It shares the power buss with some other systems. Do the flashers work? They also share that power source. From there you will need access to a factory level scan tool to run the control tests for the modules in order to see if the network is in control or if there are multiple modules that cannot access the network.

Thank you for the info. The flashers do work.

I pulled the EPS fuse and tested it with the car battery and it made the clicking sound.
The factory tool would this be Techstream?

Yes, it would be the Tech Stream tool. There are a couple aftermarket tools that should do the same thing, but I've never tested them personally, that would be the upper end Autel and Launch tools, but they can be touchy at times.
Does the power steering work as well? It might be a data issue if it is working.

I don't think so it doesn't feel smooth, and the p/s triangle light and ABS light are lit.

Could you make a list of all things that are not working please? I'll look at the wiring and see if they have a power or ground in common. From what you have posted so far it sounds like it could be a failure in the wiring harness shutting down power but with a full list it might give a better "map" to the problem.

Okay, will do.

Hi,

I noticed it has been a couple of days since we heard from you. Have you been able to make any progress? We're interested in knowing.

Let us know.

Joe

You will hear from me in the upcoming days. Trying to make the best list possible.

Hi,

No problem. We just like to make sure things get taken care of. We look forward to hearing from you.

Take care,

Joe

Hi,
Sorry for the delay.
This is the list, nothing automatic works.
Car: starts and runs but AT will not shift normally.
Not working:
windshield wiper auto
Radio
AC
Right side back window (the rest work)
Temp Gauge console
Shift console gear indicator light
Cigarette light (no voltage)
Left side panel
- odo trip, odo sensor, rear window shade, invert/control side mirrors, parking sensor.
Rain sensor wiper.
Auto light.
Steering buttons.
Windshield sprayer.

Fusses that are not working:

Right side panel.
8 Air Sus No Voltage
9 Power Outlet Low Voltage
10 Cigarette Lighter Low Voltage
11 Acc, Low Voltage
14 Ecu-Ig Rh Low Voltage
15 Fr S/Htr-Rh Low Voltage
16 Rh-Ig Low Voltage
Left Side Panel
26 Panel No Voltage
27 Fuel Open No Voltage

All the fuses listed above were tested for resistance and all were good.

Okay, that list helps a lot. Especially that you traced the fuses. From the fuses it looks like 90% of the other issues are related to the lack of power in the box. That power comes from the power unit control (with the B2286 fault) That suggests that the PCU is the faulty part, it is in the same area as the fuse panel you were testing, I would find the PCU and test for power at the orange wire fed from fuse AM2 in the same box, if that fuse has power but none at the box check the socket for corrosion. Then check for control on the yellow wire to the PCU, that wire should power up when the key is turned on. If you have both of those verify the power switch circuits are okay. If they are all okay but still no power to the bad circuits the PCU has failed. It is the primary feed to all of your problem circuits.

Hi,

I started with the EPS relay and connector.
EPS connector voltage 1 = 12.49V
EPS connector voltage 5 = 12.49V

Did an ohm test but the results were strange.
I applied 12v to the relay and when I tested it did not go to zero. Tested the relay next to it that yes went to zero. So, I switched the relays and there was no difference. The relay next to the EPS is the headlight. Even with the faulty one the headlight came on.
Pics: One the connections look damaged can that be?

That could be the issue, the relay contacts are under that cover, and it could be that the armature isn't connecting on the top. Swap it with a new one and see what you get. Or pry the cover off and check what the relay is doing, could be a piece of plastic causing it to stick.

Hi guys,
It's been a while and I have a few questions.
1. I removed the eps relay, and the steering wheel became hard. (Btw ordered three new ones)
2 I swapped the eps relay and the steering wheel was functioning.
3. I tested the fusible link with a test light and all the fuses lit up.
4. Could this help me get a more definitive answer: Power Probe Polarity Identify Electrical Tester Short and Open Circuit Tester Automotive with LED Test Light, or what would you guys recommend finding the short?

I don't believe it's a short but an open, likely inside the PCU, if you can dig it out of the dash you can use the wiring diagram to check the powers and grounds and see if the power out of the box is okay. It powers the circuits you show as having no power. Testing that will be the first step, if it tests good then the issue is in the harness to the junction box.

Hi guys, I finally got a chance to work on the car. I found the power source control see pics. Now how do I test it, I have the following tools?

Thanks

It can be tested installed in the car, you need to use the diagrams above to test the power going into the unit, so the test light connected to ground to test for power on the orange, brown and yellow leads going into the unit, then check the grounds on the black and pink wires to be sure you have a good ground. If you have the constant battery power on the orange and brown wires and the battery power on the yellow wire is turning on and off with the relay as you turn the key on and off. Check to see if you are getting power out of the unit on the green and light blue wires. If either one doesn't have power the box is bad. If you don't have power into the yellow wire when you turn the key, then check the ignition 2 relay in the power center.

Hi,
I tested the wires with a circuit tester.
See pic and table.
Green ignition on - light
Green ignition off - no light
Brown ignition on - light
Brown ignition off - light
Pink ignition on - low current
Pink ignition off - low current

The pink and black should both ground with the switch on and have no ground switch off. If you get a dim light with the switch on and the test light connected to battery power the ground is corroded or the wire is. Poor grounding can cause the unit to shut off one section and give you the results you are seeing. Check the grounds from the pink wire, or for testing turn the key on and run a jumper to a good ground from the pink wire.

Hi, I found this piece broken and I stuck it back on with some crazy glue. Could this be the source? Should I buy a new mpx? I tested the unit again direct from the neg battery and it stayed the same.

Hi,

Looking at the pics, I would say replace it. Chances are something is melted, or a solder joint is broken or cracked.

Let me know how it turns out for you.

Joe

If that was just glued in place it is likely the problem as it is a capacitor and would have been soldered to the board below it. It looks more like the cap failed and leaked on the board though. Common thing with that cap design in larger sizes. If you have a good electronics repair shop nearby have them look at it, if it leaked but didn't damage the traces on the board it could be repaired and see if it works. I've repaired a lot of similar issues over the years because of faulty caps.

Hi guys,

I tested the following connections.
Green--wiper starts to work when probed.
Black - - nothing
Brown - - nothing
Lt blue - - nothing
Red--nothing
Blue-battery dash indicator flashes when probed

Pink--nothing
Green--nothing
White--nothing
Grey-cigarette light works when probed.

Blue-ABS, PS light goes off when probed.

Where should I look now?
This module is connected to a fuse box.
Could the module be broken?

PS I used the duoyi dy18 probe circuit finder.

Did you replace the module and program it? If not, then that would be the first step.

Hi guys, new problem.
The car's starter makes a zooming sound and there is no engine start.
I think I hit a bump and after turning the car off. The car wouldn't start again, it would only make a zoom sound.
Recommended action: buy a new starter.

By the way, bought the module and awaiting delivery.

The engine bay makes a zoom sound with everything off. And the pos sparks when reattaching it.

It could be a bad solenoid, or the starter actually came loose from the engine, however we have a policy on this site of trying to keep problems separate to make it easier to search for specific problems. As such would you please ask the no start question as a new question. If at all possible, a video of the issue with the sound would be very helpful.

Got the module and swapped it and everything works again. Thanks for the assistance.

Hi,

Thanks for the update. We're glad you got it taken care of.

Feel free to come back anytime in the future.

Take care,

Joe