Codes C1552 and B2286

The codes wouldn't cause it but the problem that is setting the codes might.
The C1552 code is a failure in the power steering supply voltage while the B2286 is a power control ECU (not engine ECU, it's the smart electronics controller) fault. It is possible that both are related if the power or grounds are shared between them.
First thing on the power steering code would be to verify that there is power at the EPS fuse in the power center under the hood, it's an 80-amp fuse. It shares the power buss with some other systems. Do the flashers work? They also share that power source. From there you will need access to a factory level scan tool to run the control tests for the modules in order to see if the network is in control or if there are multiple modules that cannot access the network.

Yes, it would be the Tech Stream tool. There are a couple aftermarket tools that should do the same thing, but I've never tested them personally, that would be the upper end Autel and Launch tools, but they can be touchy at times.
Does the power steering work as well? It might be a data issue if it is working.

Could you make a list of all things that are not working please? I'll look at the wiring and see if they have a power or ground in common. From what you have posted so far it sounds like it could be a failure in the wiring harness shutting down power but with a full list it might give a better "map" to the problem.

Hi,

I noticed it has been a couple of days since we heard from you. Have you been able to make any progress? We're interested in knowing.

Let us know.

Joe

Hi,

No problem. We just like to make sure things get taken care of. We look forward to hearing from you.

Take care,

Joe

Okay, that list helps a lot. Especially that you traced the fuses. From the fuses it looks like 90% of the other issues are related to the lack of power in the box. That power comes from the power unit control (with the B2286 fault) That suggests that the PCU is the faulty part, it is in the same area as the fuse panel you were testing, I would find the PCU and test for power at the orange wire fed from fuse AM2 in the same box, if that fuse has power but none at the box check the socket for corrosion. Then check for control on the yellow wire to the PCU, that wire should power up when the key is turned on. If you have both of those verify the power switch circuits are okay. If they are all okay but still no power to the bad circuits the PCU has failed. It is the primary feed to all of your problem circuits.

That could be the issue, the relay contacts are under that cover, and it could be that the armature isn't connecting on the top. Swap it with a new one and see what you get. Or pry the cover off and check what the relay is doing, could be a piece of plastic causing it to stick.

I don't believe it's a short but an open, likely inside the PCU, if you can dig it out of the dash you can use the wiring diagram to check the powers and grounds and see if the power out of the box is okay. It powers the circuits you show as having no power. Testing that will be the first step, if it tests good then the issue is in the harness to the junction box.

It can be tested installed in the car, you need to use the diagrams above to test the power going into the unit, so the test light connected to ground to test for power on the orange, brown and yellow leads going into the unit, then check the grounds on the black and pink wires to be sure you have a good ground. If you have the constant battery power on the orange and brown wires and the battery power on the yellow wire is turning on and off with the relay as you turn the key on and off. Check to see if you are getting power out of the unit on the green and light blue wires. If either one doesn't have power the box is bad. If you don't have power into the yellow wire when you turn the key, then check the ignition 2 relay in the power center.

The pink and black should both ground with the switch on and have no ground switch off. If you get a dim light with the switch on and the test light connected to battery power the ground is corroded or the wire is. Poor grounding can cause the unit to shut off one section and give you the results you are seeing. Check the grounds from the pink wire, or for testing turn the key on and run a jumper to a good ground from the pink wire.