Drum brake keeps grabbing and grinding

1999 DODGE DURANGO
175,504 MILES • 5.2L • V8 • 4WD • AUTOMATIC
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CPETRYK
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I recently replaced its wheel cylinders, adjuster kit, and disconnected my parking brake (as a fix that did not work).
My driver brake catches and grinds at low speeds (about thirty five max).
I notice when I slightly press on my brake pedal the grinding stops, as if the top of my brake is not far enough apart until the brakes are applied, but the shoes sits perfectly in line with the photo in my book.
Could my pedal be too high? Or do I need to replace my springs in my drum? ( they seem hard to pull I need to put my entire body into it)
Feb 7, 2018 at 4:58 AM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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If you have not replaced the springs, that could be an issue, but unlikely. Make sure the backing plate is not bent or rusted causing the noise. Also, when adjusting the brakes, make sure to set the shoes. What I do is this, adjust until there is a drag on the wheel, then apply the brakes several and readjust. Keep in mind, rust or dirt is usually the issue.

Here is a video on replacing rear brakes:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3W0fs6shT3o
Feb 7, 2018 at 11:41 AM
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CPETRYK
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The video did not help any. I used brake cleaner on my entire system (cannot use water due to very frigid weather lately).
As far as I can tell the backing plate is not bent, I readjusted the drum but it did not help either, brings me back to "is it possible my brake pedal is too high causing compression of the wheel cylinders? "
Should I rebleed with different amount of pressure on pedal?
Feb 8, 2018 at 10:35 AM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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No... bleeding the brakes won't change anything unless you have air in the system. First, remove the drum, sand any glaze from the drum (where the shoes make contact). Also, lightly sand the shoes, too. Also, make sure you have the primary and secondary shoes in the correct position. I attached a picture I found online for you to review. Basically, the primary shoe usually has a shorter lining and is forward facing. See pic.

If the shoes are correctly installed, the springs are good, and you sanded as I previously mentioned, and it still makes noise, replace the shoes. I have had issues with certain brands of shoes / pads that sound like I'm running metal to metal until I touch the brakes. I can't list brands due to legal issues. I'm not a representative of any company, but have never had problems with brands such as Bendix, Raybestos...

Let me know what happens. I have a feeling it's the actual brake shoes. It sounds like you did everything correctly.
Feb 8, 2018 at 7:29 PM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Have you had any luck?
Feb 10, 2018 at 8:35 PM
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CPETRYK
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I'm tearing back into them today or tomorrow, weather has been far from helpful. Will let you know a family mechanic mentioned that I could have the adjusters backwards, right and left side, or the arms. But I don't know I'll find that out too.

Side note I never had any issues with duralast before, I doubt its the shoes cause it did it with my old ones, and it all started after I replaced my wheel cylinders and adjuster screws.
Feb 16, 2018 at 2:58 AM
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CPETRYK
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Okay adjusters seem to be on right, according to the book, house mechanic mentioned that the drums might be grinding cause of the new shoes being....well new, it's gotta grind em down to size supposedly,
Feb 16, 2018 at 11:17 AM
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STRAILER
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Can I ask how the axle bearing is doing? I ask because you say the noise stops when you hit the brakes which would indicate an axle bearing issue. Lift the car and check for play up and down with the emergency brake off.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/jack-up-and-lift-your-car-safely

if there is play this guide can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/rear-axle-seal-replacement

Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken

Feb 19, 2018 at 12:08 PM