Drivers window will not work?

So when you sat you put 12 volts to the window motor you mean both positive and negative correct? If so, you must try reversing polarity in case the window/regulator is all the up or down. If so and you get no movement then both the old and new motor are not good. There is no BCM or anything else but the logic inside the window switches. motors and the wiring, you could have a bad ground for the main window switch which is located at the base of the left and right side of door B pillar. Here are the window wiring diagrams so you can see how it works. Check out the images (below). Please upload pictures or videos in your response.

Hi. the new window regulator and motor - I got from Sturdevant's. It's currently in the middle of the slide. So I applied 12vdc to the larger pins of the motor connector pos and neg and the motor didn't even make a noise, same for the old motor. I used a table top adjustable power station to supply the 12vdc. I confirmed it was 12v with a multimeter.

If you have 12 volts to window motor and it does not move the motor or regulator is jammed. It is a simple 12-volt motor.

I tried it again today - applied to the two larger pins. One way it would click but not move and the opposite connection nothing. This is the old motor, which was working before, what appears to be some other issue beyond the motor. Thought it was a switch but does not seem to be the case. I put a multimeter on the connector that goes to the motor, then holding the door panel with the new switch installed and ignition on I tried the driver window switch and the multimeter didn't register anything - I tried both polarity.

Is this inside the vehicle or underneath? "bad ground for the main window switch which is located at the base of the left and right side of door B pillar. "

The ground will be inside the vehicle, but if the motor does not work the ground will not help. Have you tried putting power to a window motor that works to see if it can be done that way? A new motor?

I did the same procedure to both motors.

Yep, I don't think you can just add power and ground for the motor to work since it has a logic module built in. It must be controlled by the switch. Can you plug the new window motor in and try it with the switch?

Yes, the new motor is all ready installed with the new regulator. I have no way to supply power to it and yet have the plug in place in order so the switch can control it, etc.

My dealership cannot look at it until the week of the 11th so I am hoping to find a solution to the problem soon as I cannot drive it in its current state.

Did you happens to look at the MIR WNDW MDL fuse in the panel on the left side of the dash?

I looked at both 30 amp fuses and 5 amp fuse not sure if that is what they are called but they are intact.

Yep, we only have the switch, wiring and window motor, let me know what the garage says please, I am interested.

Don't have it back yet but the dealership just called and said needs front drivers door wiring harness.

That makes sense since we tried everything else, the drivers door gets worked much more than the others. Let me know if that fixes it, and see if they can show you why the harness is bad, that would be good.

They never gave me the harness back.

Though, a week or more after this work.... my dash still delivers the message of rolling window down and back up. I do that many times and yet, still it comes back.

Though the window still rolls up and down.

I would replace the drivers side window regulator/motor with an OEM unit.