Drivers door lock wont lock with the switch?

So chances are the door lock actuator fuse is out or the actuator itself, but I have see the wires at the door jam break and cause this problem as well, also have you tried a new master switch? This would be the first place I start. Here is a guide for a test light and the door lock wiring diagrams so you can see if the lock actuator is getting power.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hlna_kUt7As

Please let me know what you find.

I will check it out tomorrow. It's already dark now. But I'll let you know.

I haven't tried anything yet. 8 was thinking of cleaning the contacts first which I'll do tomorrow as well. It's just been really busy around here.

Yep, sounds good, that is wear I would look first besides the fuses in the images above. Check fuse # 6 and #11.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-xNK79Wa-w

I haven't had time to work on the truck yet. My bad to keep you waiting. Just so you know, I do have a multimeter and a test light and immediately semi cognitive of how to use them except for checking continuity with the multimeter. I haven't gotten that far yet. But using the door lock switch on the driver's side locks the passenger door but I don't hear anything from the driver's door suggesting that it's even trying to lock. I'm going to check that light green and black wire in the morning and try to figure out how to properly repair the actuator I think you called it

Yep yep, I would use the test light it is easier and all you need to see if you get power to the actuator and through the switch.

So I multimeter the switch and that confused me lol. I'm going to add another picture of the inside of the switch

Fuses 6 and 11 are good

The switch

I tested the harness connector and both lock and unlock get power.

The video

Hmm, I would make sure the ground is good for a test light, you said you have correct? And test the org/blk for power at the lock actuator itself when you move the switch one way or the other, then check for power at the pnk/blk wire when you work the switch the other way. The ground and power alternator depending if the switch is lock or unlock. As you can see by the wiring diagrams the switch goes into the timer module, so that might be bad but if you have power at these wires I would replace the lock actuator.

Is it all one piece (the lock assembly and the actuator and how do I get it out

And test it

You just need to test the wiring going to the lock actuator/latch. Here is how to remove the latch/lock actuator

Ok I have already done that and got voltage on both pins of the harness.

Yep, unless the grounds are not working from the timer module I would replace the latch, you can get a used one from ebay and just plug it in to see if it works.

Door latch or that entire lock assembly? We're going to go to the junk yard

Just the latch, it is a power latch so the lock solenoid is inside of it.

Ok. I've got to wait for a ride to the junk yard

Sounds good

Is there a way to take out the whole door lock assembly and clean up the contact points and any corrosion? And is it worth the time to try it

Yes, you might be able too.

Could you please give me a rundown on what I can do to possibly help because I have no idea

I need to see the lock/latch, you may not be able to take it apart. Did you get the used one from ebay?