Driver side heater vents blow cold air?

Hi,

If you are hearing it move, you should be getting heat. I just checked the directions and there are no relearn procedures indicated.

Were you able to hear the original one move when you changed the temp on the driver's side? When you installed the new one, did everything go together tight?

Let me know. Also, let me know if the coolant is both clean and full.

Take care,

Joe

So, I hear changing but there is another aviator controlling the passenger side right next to the one in question

So, I think there is either an alignment issue or the cam I stalled onto is broken or something. My coolant is clear full etc. I even flushed the heater core very well which I’m getting good hear on the passenger side.

Now one thing I’m currently working on finding the answer is the electrical connector for thus actuator, so I noticed it appears a pin in the connector is missing. So, 3 pins across top 3 across bottom so 1 and 3 are in place on top bottom rows 4,5 and 6 are in place. Is there supposed to be 5 or 6 pins.

Hi,

There should be five wires. Pin 5 in the connector isn't used. See pics below.

Let me know if that helps.

Joe

See pics below.

Okay, I’m glad you sent that because I was thinking it was a wiring issue since pin 5 looked like it was missing a connection.

I attached this humming noise I’m hearing. I have no idea if this is related. It sounds like electrical humming

Is it possible that the cam and the actuator aren’t aligned up or something?

Okay, I’ve been searching for a real color image of the cam that they install onto and one thing I quickly noticed is that I actually screwed in a flange head screw in the picture with the sea circled why a screw well the original bolts I actually dropped them down somewhere Ava couldn’t locate them. I looked up the specs for bolts it showed M5x18mm if I recall so I have a bunch of little screws so I went with something same size if anything it would be smaller not larger but i definitely screwed in a screw here it’s not like I felt like I was forcing it in though.

Hi,

I do hear the humming, and it does sound like it could be the actuator. If that is the case, it doesn't sound connected to anything and is free moving without restriction.

When you lost the screw, could it have fallen inside the box?

Joe

No, it went more under the gear shift casing it fell off the magnet that I was pulling it out with when wiring was in the way.

How difficult is it to remove the cam the actuators are attached to?

Is there anything down from the front facing vents that I couldn’t knock loose when I was running a soft brush down there cleaning the vents that. Couldn’t undone or something.

There really isn't anything. If you are questioning if something is disconnected, remove the actuator and move it manually to see if you get heat.

Let me know.

Joe

What is this rubber plug connected to? I believe it is a resistor. Is this a temperature sensor or something plugged into the box or something? I ask because I was changing the setting laying down there and I noticed the air I was feeling was not coming from the floor vent it was blowing out this plug that I pulled back into place. So, what I noticed by fixing that the blower pretty sure pushes a lot harder out the vents at least. So, I also noticed switching to defrost to md at least my idle dropped but it still switched over fine but then you hit A/C blows fine cold air, but you hear it switching when I roll the dial over to heat, but you don’t ever feel it close up that flap thou. So, I want to make sure you know which one I’m working on in the event I called it the wrong name. I circled you T in yellow.

Hi,

It appears to be a temperature sensor. Also, you are working on the correct side. As far as the idle drop, when you turn the defroster on, that is normal. It also turns on the AC to help dehumidify the air going into the vehicle. Hence, it defrosts faster.

Let me know.

Joe

Joe,

Do you have the directions to replace the cam that the actuators attach to? I still have no heat after even going to Ford to buy an OEM part instead of aftermarket.

Hi,

I checked through two manuals and that isn't listed. When you move it manually, did you get heat?

Let me know.

Joe

I honestly don’t know which way to turn it. I'm scared it’s stripped somehow or somehow simply not connected on the backside with whatever moves on that side.

I have the part number GV6Z19788A in case you search that part number to see if something pulls ups. I’m just concerned about once you unbolt it how far does it need to be able to pull it off or is it just going to slide down, I really don’t want to remove the steering column which sweat I’d need to remove if it needs say 6” of space to pull it off.

Hi,

I understand your concerns. However, it should simply be a plastic flap/door. It should move easily. If it doesn't, then it is a concern.

Let me know.

Joe

The whole pigtail is dead I couldn’t get anything with a test light with he key off or on or with the heater setting on either. I did replace F71 fuse (7.5) still nothing. I have no idea where to start from here.

Hi,

Did you check for power at the fuse? If not, do that and let me know if it has power.

As far as power at the connector, it comes from the HVAC module. The fuse you mentioned sends battery voltage to the module, so that's why I need confirmation of power at the fuse.

Here is a link that explains how to check:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Let me know.

Joe

Do you think there’s a chance this could be my problem with the no heat on the drivers side?

Hi,

I believe that is an HVAC temperature sensor. Yes, it could be related to the issue.

Let me know.

Joe

I just know it’s the cabin temperature sensor and I was reading elsewhere functions that a faulty or failing one could produce and it mentioned mode function and irregular temperature being produced out.

Honestly, I took it off in the middle of working on this issue previously and noticed it was full of dust heavily and questioned then if it even worked. Now there is something else I’m learning. I’m fairly certain my car was in the hurricane in Florida that last one that hit. Well, I’ll say my car that I bought Jan 2023 has to have been flooded why? My carpets to this day I’m still power blowing beach sand out. So that’s partly why I was messing with the vents earlier running feather duster or small brushes all the way down simply because it had stuff all in it all the way down. Honestly, I shouldn’t have bought the car, but it was in the midst of no inventory post covid my 2011-Ford Escape finally crapped out entirely at 495,000 miles (yep you read that right) original transmission and engine now everything else I had replaced over time. But I always did the work, and I constantly changed the oil and every 30,000 miles I drained 1/2 the ATF out. It ran great honestly. I just ran into the fact that nearly every bolt hole needed rethreaded entirely. So, I have Parkinson, but I don’t allow it to stop me. I’m not in 40. But can I drive something in straight I’ll say yes but I have learned heck no I can’t. So, I was always breaking them or stripping them. So, my compressor that last drive completely fell out cause the copper strands I had wrapped around the bolt had loosened up so much so when I lost it there went the belt and dbsppped the A/C lines as it was dragging under the car and bust the radiator from the condenser forcedly slamming into it. I just had the wrecker take it straight to the junk yard, but I got every penny of my 34k I paid for it brand new thou. So, I was heck bent on buying the same SUV again 2.5l mainly which I did but after spending months finding one without a car, I bought the next one the ford dealership found. They swear it wasn’t flooded. I said why do you have a brand-new intake manifold why does everything under the hood still have visible Barcode stickers on everything.

Hi,

Are you in Florida? If not, it may not show it was in a flood. If you are correct, that is why you are having crazy electrical issues. Salt water isn't nice to electronics and wiring.

I think you got more miles out of your other one than anyone has before. Usually, by 200K they were really tired. As far as the sand, if you are in Florida, could the vehicle have been used on a beach?

Joe

No, I’m in New Orleans so I’m very familiar with flooding obviously. So, it struck me immediately at the sand I was seeing. Now I didn’t see anything like sand when I looked at the car and once o vacuum, you’ll think okay I got it all heck no give it a day you’ll see it resurface all over again.

Hi,

If that is the case, I suspect your thoughts are correct. Ugh! Anything to make it a little more difficult.

If you have a chance, keep me in the loop. I'm interested in knowing what you find.

Take care,

Joe

So, I assume this is part of the problem.

Hi,

The code is likely indicating a problem within the HVAC control module or the body control module (BCM). In this case, the BCM isn't receiving a signal from the HVAC module. If both parts are functioning, it sounds like they are, there could be an issue in the controller area network (CAN).

I don't know how familiar you are with the CAN. The Controller Area Network is a communication protocol interconnecting electronic control units (ECUs) within a vehicle. It allows different components and systems in a car to communicate with each other in real time. In this case, the BCM isn't communicating with the HVAC module. That leaves diagnostics to help narrow things down.

If you look below, I attached diagnostics specific to it. Take a look through them and let me know if you are comfortable performing them.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Any chance I created that code when I pulled that 7.5a fuse? I just thought about that.

Also, I cleared the code and it’s not come back on, but I also have no heat on either side now for some reason is any of the things you just referenced under the steering wheel that I could have pulled on by accident? Now I did take that cabin temperature sensor off and sprayed it with mass air cleaner ABS allowed it to dry out.

Joe,

The yellow wire on the knee airbag is that wiring tied into the actuator in anyway? I ask only because I just noticed the yellow wire is completely detached from the connector. Makes me wonder if it works or not because I have no codes for that all this time. Unless it’s been barely connected and just finished itself off

Hi,

The yellow wire at the knee airbag isn't related to the HVAC. That is the return signal to the restraint control module (RCM). See pics below.

Let me know. Also, if that wire is damaged, the airbag light should be on.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Okay, I'm shocked. But I have heat on both sides. The driver's side isn’t exactly what the passenger side is but at least I know what I did etc. so now just a few small adjustments probably. So, I was against busting open these new actuators but like a light bulb went off if the cam shaft is off then the original setting on the new actuator isn’t going to be correct. So, I busted it open and felt like it was in the open position so I shut it (so I just realized also there’s only two real setting on that. Either open or closed. I was thinking it had a position for each setting) so I opened the new actuator moved it to line with the cam shaft honestly didn’t expect it to work that I even forgot to test it after I got it back together because it’s such a pain to get one screw in on this thing. That I went to Walmart to buy a test light and just naturally turned the heat one and nearly fainted in shock, lol.

Hi,

It sounds like you found the issue. If its working, chances are that was the problem all along. This is good news.

Let me know if anything changes. Also, feel free to come back anytime in the future.

Take care,

Joe

Hey, please tell me I bought the right connectors for that driver knee airbag that had the broken wire pulled out of the connector.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/364692059963?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=__z98ei8tlw&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=xydCT9_TSuq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Hi,

That indicates it is a clock spring connector for the airbag. I'm looking at the schematic and the airbag wiring goes to the restraints control module. Is the connector at the airbag the same?

Joe

See pics below.

Okay, so, i finally got tired of not having a real head on the driver’s side. So, I dove into this once again and actually discovered the problem. Something somewhere has to cause a shift, or something cause this metal “cage” I’d call it around the whole heater core box has been bent up against the canister. So, the white knob that turns to open the driver's side vent has been lodged all this time so the cam after removing it which I broke to all pieces to remove it that’s how tight it is. If I remove the actual gear from the cam for that area, you’ll see where it’s tried turning so much it’s worn all the groves down on the cam not the teeth though. So, I bought a brand new one. No way it’s going back in without cutting this metal thing off absolutely no way things can line up properly to go in and move freely. I guess mostly I’ve only been worried about this potential being used as a ground somewhere and simply cutting a section off wouldn’t mess that up would it?

You shouldn't need to cut anything; can you just remove the bracket?