Dome lights won’t turn off?

Hello,

Can I ask if all the door are shut completely, please open and shut all doors, if that is okay it sounds like the logic for the BCM got messed up, I would do a hard system reboot and allow the systems to come back on line naturally, here is a video to show you how.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=INiDRO5A5MY&t

Let me know how it goes.

Thank you I’ll try that but yes the door latches are all in working order I know it can only be something directly related to what I removed because there were no prior issues

You reconnected everything correct? It should be just a logic error.

I’ve unconnected and re connected basically everything related to it so I doubt it. Unplugging battery did not work.

Did you watch the video? you must do more then disconnect the battery.

If that does not help lets a do CAN scan and see if there are any codes.

CAN SCAN - https://youtu.be/u-4syLc-ifQ

Let me know.

These are the codes I got. I’m clueless with gm electronics so I’m not sure what to do.

Yep, that is a CAN scan, if the truck had no problems before it looks like a ground wire was left off. Did you remove any ground wires while doing the job?

I don’t think I did I only unplugged things. Every other button and switch works that I unplugged other than the dome light switch because they won’t turn off. Is there a ground wire in the headliner that I can search for that anyone would know the location of.

Also I watched the video of how to drain the system I followed all the instructions and left it over night. It doesn’t seem to be working for me all my presets and Bluetooth devices stayed and didn’t go away like I thought they would as described in the video. So either I did something wrong or it’s not working with my truck. Any ideas??

The hard reset will not work here. Can I ask where you connected the wiring for the LED lights?

I did not tap into any factory wiring yet. It’s simply just plugged into a cigarette lighter. So I don’t believe that that is causing any interference.

Nope, that wont hurt anything, I would check the battery vorlage next, it should be about 12.4 volts.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter/

Let me know what the test gives us.

It reads 12.3-12.4 so battery’s fine

Okay, so to recap, the grounds are good, you did not tap into any wiring, anything is connected and all of the door are shut, can I ask if the outer door handles are okay? The dome light switch is inside the handles which one is broken it can hold the dome lights on. If so this video can help you fix it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gpIwkjGA8_A

Let me know how it goes

No none of my handles are broken I have absolutely not a thing wrong with the truck other than the lights not turning off.

hello, I was just curious, are you able to access the BCM's live data? see if there are any inputs that are staying On or look different than the other switches when the doors are closed, interior lamp switch off and it says off in the BCM's live data stream. This is important.
If you see it reading On, then you know which circuit to start checking. The first code B2740 is Front Fog lamp switch- Short to ground. But I think you will see something in the live data of the BCM. The module is going to sleep after the truck is off and the lamp turns out, but when its still awake its leaving the interior lamp on.
Which codes come back first when you just turn the key On, engine Off? The BCM will wake up with the key On.,

I’ll need to find some one with a scanner that can I just have a cheap one that I’m pretty sure can’t check live data.

You were able to pull codes from the BCM, so with that access to the BCM (in most cases) you should be able to see the BCM live data PIDs.
What scanner do you have? Ill look up the specs on it. And do these codes come right back at key On? What is the "Live" option at the bottom of the screen there? I know it can be easy to miss special options things on scan tools, believe me, I do it all the time. Just need to dig into the scanner a bit more to find the hidden functions.

I will always retrace my steps as well, if I do a job and a code(s) set after the repair. When electrical connectors in vehicles are disconnected and reconnected many times over the years the pins inside connectors will eventually spread some, thats just what happens.
Checking the female pins for being spread is important and is overlooked a lot. I use a pin that is a little bit smaller than the one inside the harness connector, and make sure the female pin has some drag when checking it with a male pin. If the pin falls out, thats a bad connection.