2003 Dodge Stratus Engine Problems

Do you hear a clicking/ticking? What kind of noise? Is it misfiring and are you getting any codes?

High mileage oil, has some additives (detergents, seal conditioners) that regular oil does not, but (in my opinion), it is mostly hype.

If you change your oil/filter every 3-5K you will not have any problems, unless there is an underlying mechanical problem, which no oil can fix.
Keep oil changed, keep an eye on coolant level, and trans. fluid level and generally your car will last many years, and check for leaks on ground when you park.

Over time, seals (valve stem, main seals) will harden and can leak, no additive can fix this.

It's kind of like a constant hmmmm sound and it kind of vibrates on my gas pedal & floor board. As soon as I touch the brakes it goes away.

Can I switch back to regular oil? They told me that once I switch to high mileage I can never go back.

I've also had about 7 flat tires in the last 2 months. First dodge couldn't figure it out. Good year said it was a valve stem. But I had already ruined the tire so I had to buy a new one. Then that tire had a slow leak and they said it was a bead leak. Stayed aired up for a couple months then it was a bead leak again. I had new tire rod ends. And then my right front tire got a nail. Then I took it back after I got a new tire for that one and they said it had a bead leak. Now I just don't know what to believe with my tires and I'm totally paranoid and constantly checking the air.

I took my car to the mechanic today and it wasn't my engine at all it was my wheel bearing. He said it seized and he had to replace my wheel bearing and axle for my left front tire. $600 later. He told me I will need to replace my right one too as the humming noise is not as much but is still there. How long can I put this off as I'm broke dut to the thousands of dollars I've spent on tires and now this?

Anybody tells you can't switch back to regular oil after high mileage, don't do business with them.
Have them show you a warning on the bottle that says so.

The wheel bearing MAY have been the cause of your tire problem, it could also be a casting defect in the wheel (if Aluminum) or a bent/bad stamping in a steel wheel.

Wheel bearings do not have to be changed in pairs, if you are concerned about other wheel bearing:

Raise car, put on stands. Grasp tire and push/pull both horizontally and vertically, if any movement then possible wheel bearing, ball joint, tie rod, control arm bushing. If you notice any movement in the tire, then the wheel bearing should be changed as soon as you can afford it, it also will eventually fail and possibly sieze.

Check CV boots for any signs of leakage or cuts/rips in rubber boot.

The bad bearing could have been transferring heat to wheel and causing the bead to seperate, you will just have to wait and see if air escapes again.

If air escapes again, talk to tire store about putting a tube in it, since it would most likely be a casting defect, and your only other choice would be to get a used wheel.

Thanks for all of your help. I had my friend raise my car up and there is some movement so the other wheel bearing needs replaced too. I have scheduled this for next Friday.

I'll just wait and see onl my leaky tire. It was bizarre b/c it would only happen if I drove my car for a longer distance than usual.

Thanks so much for your help.

Thanks for using 2carpros.