Rear axle noise starts at 20 mph and gets worse?

If the tires are good, I would support the vehicle on a lift and engage the rear axle. With a mechanics stethescope, you could move the tube to different locations around the axle to identify where the nose might be coming from. Rear end nosies are usually due to outer bearings, carrier bearings, or a ring & pinion that has frosted or pitted.

Many times I will replace the fluid first, and see if that eliminates any nosies due to lack of friction reduction in the gear oil. I always recommend synthetic gear oil.

2003 Ram 1500 4X4. "clinking noise,"that you hear when next to a curb or on street where cars will resend that sound to your open window. Rear Left side. "" tick tick tick"". Checked brakes. all good. Backing up noise gets louder. Forward and it basically quiets down to that tick, tick. been doing it for 6 months. and hasn't really gotten any louder. ? Fluid level is good, But needs changing.( note:: positrac, antislip rear end.)

I would stop driving it because it sounds like the U joints are out and the driveshaft could come loose and cause damage. Use a flashlight to inspect the U joint and look for rust colored dust.


Here is how to remove the driveshaft in case you need to remove it to replace the U joints.

Thank you...

You are welcome, please let me know you find.

After further research I discovered the Front Driveshaft is wobbling where it enters the transfer case. It is the source of the "tick, tick" noise. All u joints are seemingly in good shape. Never removed this front shaft. looks as if the exhaust cross over pipe might restrict a smooth change out. Tell me about the nose shaft entering into the transfer case. Is there a seal? Manually twisting shaft results in a rattle at entrance to Transfer case.

It sounds like the transfer case is having a problem or the U joint is locked up which it could still look good. I would remove the shaft and manually move the U joint to check the operation. If it is okay, then for sure the transmission case will need to come apart for inspection. Check out the images (below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem so we can see what's going on.

After even more research, I have determined that the carrier bearing in the front drive shaft of the Dodge 2003 Ram 1500 4X4 4.7 is apparently the culprit causing the noise and vibration. I researched YouTube to change the bearing out and discovered that my little back yard shop will not get the job done. I can purchase a used front drive shaft with less than 100,000 miles on it and consider this my quick fix based on my budget. Will pray that it will hold out until payday. I will do the change out. Will let you know the results. Thank you.

Thanks for letting us know, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

Last question please. Can I remove the front drive shaft and drive the truck to go pick up a new shaft?

Yes, you can.

Reply to Steve W. Does that mean that I can remove the front drive shaft and be able to drive the truck in 2 wheel drive until my new drive shaft arrives.??

Yes. That is a selectable 4X4 not like AWD where it has to have both axles driven and disconnecting one end would stop the vehicle. Your truck you can shift it in or out. When you are in 2W high you are basically driving a 2-wheel drive but carrying the extra weight of the front axle and transfer case. Remove the front shaft and keep it in 2WD.
You actually have the luxury of being able to remove either driveshaft and still drive on the other end! I drove a Blazer for a year using only the front axle while I built a new rear axle for it. Strange thing is that it got better mpg running on the front axle than on the rear!

Steve W. Remember the days when every truck had lock out hubs. Now, A Dodge 4X4 has everything turning all the time. Question: Can you still add locking hubs to an old Dodge 4X4?

Yes, but these days nobody wants to get out to lock them in... Some you can but it depends on the axle design. On the full independent ones you can't have true locking hubs, on the older link and coil design with the solid axle you can.

Steve W. Thank you, Steve, for your additional history. Keep up the great work.. Richard