Brake hose and brake line repair

If it does not come off as there may be a bolt holding it on or a bracket, then you will have to use the one from old axle. Here is video that will help you make your own brake line.

https://youtu.be/sO43p4ZFUiM

Please run down this guide and report back.

I can't see a pin. If there is one on the banjo fitting, I don't believe it fits into anything. There should be, however, brass washers. This video should help you with the job which is done on a similar truck.

https://youtu.be/xMS8Xy4Xz1U

Please run down this guide and report back.

You do not need to remove the fuel tank, check the diagram below.

Special bending tools are needed to avoid kinking or twisting of metal brake tubes. Special flaring tools are needed to make a double inverted flare or ISO flare.

DOUBLE INVERTED FLARING
Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
Ream cut edges of tubing to ensure proper flare.
Install replacement tube nut on the tube.
Insert tube in flaring tool.
Place gauge form over the end of the tube.
Push tubing through flaring tool jaws until tube contacts recessed notch in gauge that matches tube diameter.
Tighten the tool bar on the tube.
Cutting And Flaring Of Brake Fluid Tubing

Insert plug on gauge in the tube. Then swing compression disc over gauge and center tapered flaring screw in recess of compression disc.
Tighten tool handle until plug gauge is squarely seated on jaws of flaring tool. This will start the inverted flare.
Remove the plug gauge and complete the inverted flare.
IS0 FLARING
To make a ISO flare use Snap-On Flaring Tool TFM-428 or equivalent.

Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
Remove any burrs from the inside of the tube.
Install tube nut on the tube.

Position the tube in the flaring tool flush with the top of the tool bar. Then tighten the tool bar on the tube.
Install the correct size adapter on the flaring tool yoke screw.
Lubricate the adapter.
Align the adapter and yoke screw over the tube.
Turn the yoke screw in until the adapter is squarely seated on the tool bar.

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

More then likely the lines are rusted and they are telling you to replace them prior to them rusting through. However, you should not have to remove the tank to replace these lines. If anything you may have to take it loose but it appears the lines run along the frame rail next to the tank so you should be able to snake them through.

Here is all the info that you should need in order to replace these lines:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sO43p4ZFUiM

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-bleed-or-flush-a-car-brake-system

Take a look at this material and let us know what questions you have. Thanks

Which line? I suspect no one replied so far because if you have to ask, there are also likely to be a lot of things you can do to run into problems, and they don't want to get involved.

First of all, since you're dealing with brake fluid, be very careful to not get ANY petroleum product in the brake fluid. Simply wiping engine oil or transmission fluid off your fingers with a rag, then touching the rubber bladder seal under the reservoir cap, will leave enough residue to destroy rubber brake parts. The only proper fix is to replace every rubber part and every part with rubber parts inside, including the master cylinder.

Next, never let the reservoir or any container of brake fluid to sit open. The fluid will absorb moisture from the air which will lower the fluid's boiling point and promote corrosion of metal parts. Boiling water will vaporize and compress which leads to a mushy pedal and brake fade.

A section of a steel line can be spliced in, but you'll need to know how to make double flares. Absolutely do not use compression fittings. Lawyers love to find things like that. The easiest way to replace a steel line under the frame is to replace the entire line from connector to connector. You might need a special size connector at the front. You can buy an adapter to use with a standard replacement line, or you can buy a 6" section with the proper connector already installed, then use a union to connect it to a standard line. If you're good at making double flares, you can reuse the old connector.

You'll need to plan on where you can bleed the air out of the new line. You will avoid a lot of misery if you watch that the fluid in the reservoir never runs empty. A simple trick to stop the fluid from running out is to use a stick to prop the brake pedal down about two inches. Gravity won't be strong enough to pull the fluid out of the reservoir while you work on the system.

Caradiodoc

There are several steel lines that run from the proportioning valve to the different wheels. However, each wheel should only have one steel line. The fronts will have a rubber hose that goes from the steel line to the caliper.

As far as getting one from a dealer, chances are they no longer will have one for a 1994. You will need to get either a coil of steel line and and make your own flared ends with new fittings, or you can get the straight steel lines in different lengths and bend them to fit.

NOTE: If you flare them yourself, you need to make what is called a double flare. Please see a tech if you are not sure of what I am saying. Also, you will need a tool to properly bend the straight lines to prevent them from kinking.

If you are referring to the steel line, yes you can use a shorter one. However, you must make sure it isn't going to rub or interfere with any other components. You don't want the steel line to hit anything or rub on something that can move.

Did you ask a question about this truck a while ago?

Glad to help. Let me know if you have other questions.

Joe