1997 Dodge Ram 1500 Engine cuts off randomly?

Hi ragnarok1983. Welcome to the forum. Intermittent problems like this are almost impossible to diagnose when they don't act up long enough to do any troubleshooting. Diagnostic fault codes help but they don't solve every problem. One tool a mechanic can use is a scanner with a record / playback feature. I use the Chrysler DRB2 and DRB3, but I also have an OTC Monitor 4000 for older cars. There are also versions of scanners that can be left with the customer as long as necessary. When the problem occurs, you press the record button. Since the sensor data passes through the scanner's memory, the recording actually begins a few seconds before the button is pressed. Later, the mechanic can scroll through the data slowly, looking for a glitch with a switch or sensor.

You know the problem is not related to a plugged exhaust because it would act up all the time. The most likely suspects are the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor in the distributor. Don't overlook something as stupid as the ignition switch. There have been a lot of problems with them developing overheated contacts and overheated terminals in the connector, but it usually affects a different circuit that feeds the heater fan, power windows, and radio.

The only thing that is not monitored by the Engine Computer is the fuel system. Specific conditions must be met to set fault codes so you still could have a bad sensor, but it just might not be acting up long enough for the code to set. It is very rare to have a fuel system problem cause intermittent stalling. Once the fuel pump starts running, it rarely stops running on its own. More commonly they fail to start up so they cause a no-start condition. The exception would be if the pump stops running due to a wiring problem. If someone jambed an add-on terminal next to a fuse terminal, such as when adding a cell phone charger, it can spread the fuse socket terminal. Later, when that add-on terminal is removed, it leaves the fuse loose in its socket. You might consider swapping the fuel pump and Automatic Shutdown (ASD) relays with other similar ones. If the problem still occurs, at least you know it wasn't caused by the relays.

If you can find someone with a scanner, you can read when the ASD relay is commanded on. It should turn on for one second when turning on the ignition switch, then again during engine rotation, (cranking or running). When the engine stalls, observe if the ASD relay is being told to turn off by the Engine Computer. If it is, you will lose spark and injector pulses, and possibly the fuel pump while it is off.

My final thought for the day has to do with your front wheels. If you're happy with the look and handling, at least understand that the deep offset puts a very heavy strain on the wheel bearings. The bearings have two rows of balls, and the original wheels placed the weight of the truck right between them. Using offset wheels moves the weight to the outer row of balls and makes the hub want to twist the bearing in its housing. As a former suspension and alignment specialist, I used to cringe overtime I saw those wheels. On the other hand, you should also understand that you may never have a bearing problem, or, ... More likely you'll have one become noisy regardless of whatever type of wheels you have. I only mention this to people because it COULD cause a problem and if it does, I want you to blame the wheels, not Dodge.

Caradiodoc

An inch less offset makes a big difference. The alignment mechanic in me is happy to hear about the new wheels.

What's on the other end of that plug, wires or vacuum hoses? Beginning with '96 models, every vehicle sold in the U.S. Had the On-Board Diagnostics version 2, (OBD2) emissions system. Besides having a lot more available trouble codes, it included a second oxygen sensor in the exhaust right after the catalytic converter to monitor its efficiency. V-type engines usually have two catalytic converters, and each one has an O2 sensor right before it and right after it for a total of four sensors. Removing the converter(s) should have caused the Check Engine light to turn on, but I also think I heard there is something made that can be plugged into the harness to trick the computer into thinking the converters are there and working. That would be illegal but that's beside the point.

That connector in the photo is the shape of an O2 sensor connector but it looks more like hard rubber. That could be a vacuum hose connector for the four-wheel-drive switch on top of the transfer case. Those switches gave some trouble if moisture got in there. The switches would stick and cause the 4wd light to stay off or on, I can't remember. It switches vacuum to the vacuum motor, (actuator), on the right side of the front axle to lock the two axle shafts together. When they are unlocked, it allows them to turn at different speeds when cornering without forcing the front driveshaft to turn. That reduces the force needed a little to improve fuel mileage. When rust develops in that switch, it either sticks in 4wd or 2wd. Can't remember which, but if you unscrew the switch from the top of the transfer case, you will see a round metal ball on the end and it will be full of rust.

Caradiodoc

I forgot to mention, with the crankshaft position sensor, ... If you remove it, a paper spacer must be stuck to the end of it to set the air gap. If it is too little, the sensor could be broken from hitting the flex plate. If it is too big, there engine won't run or will stall intermittently. Some replacement sensors have a plastic rib molded onto the end to set the gap. Either that rib or the paper spacer is supposed to shear off when the engine is started. If your sensor has the plastic rib, cut the remaining part off and use the paper spacer.

Caradiodoc

Happy to hear it's running Holler back if you have more problems.

Caradiodoc