1999 Dodge Neon car turns over fine then stalls out

Tiny
RICKER91878
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 DODGE NEON
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 112,760 MILES
I bought a 99 neon and it wasn't running when I bought it. We have checked the timing its ok, changed a couple of sensors (it was coding) and no more codes. It runs a little better but still stalls, checked the compression of the plugs 1 is 120, 2 is 140 and 3 and 4 are 180. We are now troubleshooting the fuel system, fuel regulator, injectors etc. What do you guys think it might be, I don't have alot invested in it but would like to get it going to save on gas. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thank you!
Sunday, November 29th, 2009 AT 7:17 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
What does "(it was coding) and no more codes" mean? It wasn't running, but it's running better?

How long does it run before it stalls? Will it stay running if you hold your foot on the accelerator pedal? If it runs properly as long as you press on the gas pedal, the battery was recently dead or disconnected and you must relearn minimum throttle. Defective sensors won't prevent the engine from starting.

To start, find the two small wires on the back of the alternator. Measure the voltage on them. One should have full battery voltage and the other one will have something less but typically not less than 4 volts. You MUST measure these voltages within two seconds of turning on the ignition switch OR when the engine is rotating, (cranking or running). If you find voltage there for two seconds after turning on the ignition switch, but not while cranking, the Automatic Shutdown (ASD) relay isn't turning on. The only reason to measure on the alternator is it's easy to find those wires. What you're really looking for is 12 volts feeding the injectors and coils, but they're all on the same circuit along with the fuel pump or pump relay.

Which sensors did you change? And if you had diagnostic trouble codes, what were they? You've added more variables to the equation by replacing parts before the problem was diagnosed. Besides the original problem, the engine computer must relearn sensor values and reconcile them with each other. With so many changes, you might end up with fault codes for circuits that have new parts in them so you'll be hunting for problems that don't exist.

If you had codes related to the camshaft or crankshaft position sensors, suspect a sheared off locating dowel pin for the cam gear. The cam slips a little on the gear so its timing is late. This mimics a timing belt that has jumped a tooth. When the belt jumps one tooth, (or the cam gear slips an equivalent amount), the engine computer turns on the "Check Engine" light and sets a code for "Cam and crank out of sync". Two teeth off and the computer shuts the engine down by turning off the ASD relay. Three teeth off and valves will hit the pistons.

Check the timing belt first, and the relationship between the cam and crankshaft timing marks. If they're right on the money, remove the cam gear to inspect the locating dowel pin. If you're careful, you can tie the timing belt to the cam sprocket when you remove it so you won't have to go through the hassle of resetting it later. After reassembling the cam gear, rotate the engine by hand two complete revolutions to be sure no valves will hit the pistons, before you try to start it.

Caradiodoc
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Wednesday, December 2nd, 2009 AT 4:51 AM
Tiny
RICKER91878
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I appreciate your feed back, whats happening is it starts right up but will stall only after a couple of seconds, and plugs 1 and 2 are fouling up, they are full of gas, we just changed the fuel regulator we have also changed the coil pack, the injectors are okay, also checked the fuel pump and its okay, we are going to check the manifold to see if it has a vacuum leak, the only other thing is the head gasket, because plugs 1 and 2 are full of gas, we also replaced a temperature sensor and a map sensor. And yes it will stay running if you hold the throttle but it runs a little rough. We also checked the cadilitic converter to make sure it wasn't clogged up. If you want you can email me direct at ricker91878@aol. Com, thank you for your help!
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Wednesday, December 2nd, 2009 AT 4:41 PM
Tiny
BOSSMAN17954
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  • 1 POST
Try replacing the camshaft positioning sensor
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Tuesday, January 5th, 2010 AT 4:49 PM

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