CV axle replacement

Hello,


There is a guide to help walk you through the CV axle replacement with instructions in the diagrams below to show you how on your car.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-cv-axle


Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

The car makes a banging/clicking noise when you turn the wheel. It also rattles while driving it. We're pretty sure it's the CV joint. The car needs to be fixed in four days to dive six hours away and we need to know if its at all possible to fix in that amount of time.

I need to know if its the left or right axle and what your zip code is?Look under the car and see if any of the cv boots are torn and slinging grease.

2000 Dodge Intrepid 3.5L:

I recently noticed noise from the right front wheel. I suspected the wheel bearing because of the low-tone whine. This turned into a clunking snapping sound that would increase in frequency relative to vehicle speed.

I suspected the lower control arm with integrated ball joint, but I replaced these last year. Also, I put the front end up on stands and against my better judgement ran the car in drive so that I could inspect the noise while the wheels are spinning. Sure enough, I heard the wheel whine from the bearing. Curiously, I also noticed that the clicking and snapping sound was comming from the differential on the right side of the trans. Now it's posible that my ears were playing tricks on me and the noise was in fact comming from the wheel bearing since they are very close to each other.

Could the wheel bearing be causing this noise as well?

I wanted to open the differential cover to take a closer look, but on my way in there I ran into a snag. The right inner CV joint stubbornly will not slide off of the differential stub shaft. I know that there is a cir-clip on the stub shaft that retains the inner cv joint, but after 3 hours of prying and a bent pry bar I gave up. Is there a trick to this?

Should I just replace the wheel breaing, forget about the differential for now and hope for the best?

Thanks.

I know how hard it is sometimes to get this shaft out. I USE A HUGE PRYBAR, AND LEAN INTO IT WHILE IT'S IN THE AIR ON MY LIFT. Sorry about my caps key, i am one handed now but just try the bearing for now, it mat be part of the reason your getting into the final drive and taking that cover off is a no-no. How about filling it with oil at the tagged filler and just putting a bearing in it for now. ok Let me know if you want to get into the differential before trying. ok
It may just be the joint your trying to remove that is noisey, and the wheel bearings go bad often.

[quote:efb6bedf5b="ch112063"]
It may just be the joint your trying to remove that is noisey, and the wheel bearings go bad often.[/quote:efb6bedf5b]

Thanks, you were right. The bearing solved all of the noise in the right wheel well. It's very surprising to me that the bearing would cause all that clicking and snaping noise. Anyway, thanks again..saved me some un-needed work!

Good, After 93, Even a 3-speed transaxle made some strange different wheel bearing sounds, nothing like the usual freight train rolling thunder noise. I once put a set of transfer gears in and then a special final drivs gear silencer, only to find that the bearing(felt fine) was noisey, so it is easy to change(4 bolts) but does not sound the same. Your welcome
Imagine a customer brings their car in, only to find that a 200.00 repair was all it needed and you have 4 hours on it with 450.00 parts already. That is why you cannot buy experience, only earn it. Chrysler used to press it in. Real pain to replace. Good luck.

I have a 2000 Intrepid w/2.7, the R/H Passenger side CV shaft going into the tranny is very loose. Now I see there is a cover plate around the opening with a locking tab . I am wondering if you can pull the shaft and replace the bearing and or seal all from the outside. My Haynes manual does not go that deep. The CV joint is ok it is the tranny bearing I am concearned with.

I think this is what you are looking for good luck SHORT STUB SHAFT OIL SEAL NOTE:The following procedure can be used to change oil seal without removing transaxle from vehicle or having to reset ring gear backlash and differential bearing rotating torque. If any components except oil seals are replaced, the following procedure cannot be used. Short stub shaft is right stub shaft when viewed from rear of transaxle. Removal Raise and support vehicle. Remove passenger's side axle shaft. Place reference marks on differential cover and outer bearing adjuster located near short stub shaft on right side of transaxle for reassembly reference. See Fig. Remove bolt and lock bracket from outer bearing adjuster. See Fig. Using Socket (6503), rotate outer bearing adjuster slightly counterclockwise. Using torque wrench, measure amount of torque required to rotate outer bearing adjuster clockwise until reference marks are realigned. Note torque reading for reassembly reference. Using socket, remove outer bearing adjuster from differential cover. Press oil seal from outer bearing adjuster. Installation Press NEW oil seal into outer bearing adjuster. Check for corrosion on short stub shaft. If corrosion is present, wrap short stub shaft with wax paper before installing seal protector. Install Seal Protector (6591) on short stub shaft. Lubricate seal protector and lip of oil seal with gear oil. Install NEW "O" ring on outer bearing adjuster. Lubricate threads on outer bearing adjuster with gear oil. Screw outer bearing adjuster into transaxle case until torque reading is 120 INCH lbs. (13.6 N.m) less than torque value obtained in step 4 during removal. Rotate differential assembly several times in both directions to seat bearings. Tighten outer bearing adjuster until reference marks are aligned. Install lock bracket on outer bearing adjuster. Install and tighten lock bracket bolt to specification. Remove seal protector and wax paper (if used) from short stub shaft. Install NEW "C" clip and "O" ring on outer end of short stub shaft. Install axle shaft. Fill differential with Mopar 75W-90 petroleum based hypoid gear lubricant. DO NOT use synthetic gear oil. During certain conditions, pressure can build up in differential case, causing gear lubricant to blow out of differential vent tube. Manufacturer has introduced an auxiliary vent tube to improve this condition. Vent Tube (05011589AA) connects to new design differential filler plug, located on differential side cover. Vent tube is positioned between ribs on differential cover.

I have a 1996 Dodge Intrepid, a few days ago I was driving it and stopped at a red light. When the light turned green I pressed the gas pedal and the car went nowhere. It never stopped running. I placed the vehicle in park and in rolled backwards as if it was in neutral. I had to apply the parking brake to stop it. I have been told that a CV axle has probably popped out and causing this. I want to know if this could be the root cause or are there some other things I should have someone look for.


There was no oil leak and a shade-tree mechanic "repaired" this in about five minutes stating he had to put the CV axle back in. I have been told he may not have put in a Cotter pin or a Lock-ring to secure the axle.

Hi there,

If the axle came out of the transmission there would be a large oil leak, i would say that there is a problem with in the transmission, if you cant select park, you may have a selector problem, you will have to see if the transmission is actually selecting at the box when you move the shifter, start here.

mark (mhpautos)

hi ,

when starting my car in the morning after i put it in drive i hear a knocking noise and feel it slightly when griping the steering wheel,

i researched and it seems that the cv joints are bad.

i guess i would like confirmation so i can get the kit
and take it to my mechanic .

any ideas ??

Hi there,

You will only hear a faulty CV when the car is in motion and with the steering on full lock, if you have a noise stationary, i would be getting the mechanic to inspect first.

mark (mhpautos)

How do I remove/install the right side half shaft? I went
to replace the bearing/hub assembly but it's frozen onto
the spline. I can't get it off. Don't know if I have to
destroy the half shaft or not, but if I do, I want to
know how to replace it.

First of all thank you so much for your donation.Let's start with getting the half shaft out of the hub.If you have to destroy the half shaft then we will cross that bridge when we come to it.Do you have salt and snow on the road's?If so then get some liquid wrench spray it generously into where the half shaft nut goes on.Let it soak in for a good 30 mins then take the half shaft nut screw it onto the threads until the nut sits flush with the end of the shaft.Now with the knuckle attached to the ball joint still smack the end of the shaft with large hammer.Try to hit it straight on.Let me know if it break's loose.

Hi Removed axle nut and three bolts that hold bearing to spindle? is bearing like destroyed ie. got real hot does not rotate? Let me know Thanks for donate

[quote:ce5ce6bd82="saturntech9"]First of all thank you so much for your donation.Let's start with getting the half shaft out of the hub.If you have to destroy the half shaft then we will cross that bridge when we come to it.Do you have salt and snow on the road's?If so then get some liquid wrench spray it generously into where the half shaft nut goes on.Let it soak in for a good 30 mins then take the half shaft nut screw it onto the threads until the nut sits flush with the end of the shaft.Now with the knuckle attached to the ball joint still smack the end of the shaft with large hammer.Try to hit it straight on.Let me know if it break's loose.[/quote:ce5ce6bd82]

I had sprayed PB blaster liberally to splines behine the
nut. Then used a 3lb stone hammer repeatedly with
the old nut threaded flush with shaft. All I managed to
do was destroy the threads on the nut, fortunately not
the threads on the shaft. Had replaced the bearing
on the left side already, so I used the old nut to fasten
the hub assembly and shaft back together so I can
drive the car. I didn't have a three prong puller to use.
Wondering if that with a judicial amount of hammering
on it when the puller gets tight would do it. Not sure
if it will. Don't know if the sawzall would cut the bearing
if I cut the hub away. Believe the bearing is hardened.
What do you think?

Yeah the bearing and hub is hardened and would be hard to cut with a sawzall.See if you can get a hold of a puller.
That one say's it's only 25 but the otc one's which are stronger are like 50 something.That's probably your best bet aside from replacing the axle joint or the whole axle.