1985 Dodge Daytona Battery

Tiny
TWOSCOCKS42
  • MEMBER
  • 1985 DODGE DAYTONA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 133,200 MILES
This has been an ongoing problem now for a couple of months. The battery kept dying on us, even after being replaced, so we thought it was the alternator. We took out the Alt and took it to Autozone, where the asked to test it before purchasing a new one for us. They tested it and it put out good numbers; not once, but twice under two different tests. So we took it back and put it in, replaced the battery and figured we would be okay.

Well, the battery kept dying. So we figured maybe the battery was bad and we took it back; they tested it and said that is is taking a charge and recharged it for us. Put it back in the car and the car seemed fine. It was suggested that the brake light switch we were replacing (it was out) could have been causing a current draw and been the culprit.

So, the brake light switch was replaced with a brand new one and the brake lights were functioning once more. Took the car out for a while and when I tried to leave the 7-11 I had stopped at, the car would not start. It made an attempt to turn over at first, but the more we tried the less it would try. Jumping it was to no avail, it stayed dead. Someone noted that the positive wire felt warm and told me that this was not normal.

Help would be appreciated!
Friday, July 31st, 2009 AT 1:16 AM

1 Reply

Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
HI there,

You will need to do a current draw test, to do this place an Amp gauge between battery pos (+) and the cable, do not attempt to start car. With the key out and doors closed check the current draw, if above.2 Amps start pulling fuses to see if you can isolate the circuit, also disconnect the alt as a test as if it has a faulty diode, this will cause current draw but it will still charge as well. Start here.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Friday, July 31st, 2009 AT 2:19 AM

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