How do I replace the fuel pump?

Running pumps down that low with no gas to cool them is a sure fire way to ruin a pump, especially one over 100k miles. replace the fuel filter inline between the tank and the engine first, if nothing then drop the tank and you can choose to change the fuel pump filter or replace the pump. Here is a guide to help walk you through the repair with diagrams below to show you how on your car. I have also included a video on how to drain the gas out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-electric-fuel-pump

and

https://youtu.be/Q5MH2gnyFH0

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

REMOVAL:
Depressurize the fuel system.
Drain the fuel tank.
Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle.
Disconnect any lines that may remain attached to the pump.
Thoroughly clean the area around the pump so that foreign matter won't fall into the tank when the unit is removed.
Check the top of the pump for arrows or alignment marks. Check for corresponding marks on the tank itself. Alignment of the pump is important for routing of wiring and lines. Matchmark the pump and tank as reference for assembly.
If the pump is equipped with "fingers" and "finger locks", apply some lubricant to the assembly.
Remove the pump locknut. Some units are fitted with a lock tab. Pry it back while removing the locknut.

INSTALLATION:
Clean the filter at the bottom of the module.
Reverse the removal procedure.
Use a new gasket.
Align pump and tank marks to ensure correct routing of wires and lines.
If the locknut is the type without fingers and finger locks, tighten the nut to 40 ft. Lbs. (54 Nm).

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The pump is in the fuel tank. The easiest way to replace it that I have found is to actually remove the truck bed. There are 8 bolts that hold it on (which should come out easily) and then just disconnect the wiring to the rear tail lights and the filler tube at the fill location (3 screws I think). Have a friend help you lift it off and you have full access. Because I've done them before, it takes me about half an hour to complete. Otherwise, you will be dealing with the rusted fuel tank straps that always seem to break, trying to muscle out the tank, and then praying that the plastic tank doesn't crack when you tighten it back into place.

Let me know if you have questions.

Joe

Would be much easier and about same price just to purchase a used fuel pump assembly with warranty and replace old assembly.

Go to the parts store and buy the right one, or if you want to gamble on a used fuel pump return to the junkie and have them pull the right part!

The wiring for the sending unit at the tank, take it loose, you can use different size resistor for full and empty, key on, see if gage reacts. I'll find the wiring diagram. You can get resistors at radioshack, doesn't cost much. Get a resistor close to ohms spec, if you want to test. Some people don't want no part of testing. That's up to you.

I don't know if you replaced the sending unit? With sending unit unplugged, key on, the gage should go to empty.

The wire colors for sending unit, one wire is yellow, the other wire is lite blue with black tracer. If you use resistor for full or empty, between those two terminals, key on, the gage should react.

Ok, I'd have to do the other testing at the connector. Some makes and models, you can replace the pump without replacing the sending unit.

When you replace the pump a good idea is to drop the tank. And scrub the tank out good as to prevent the new pump from being contaminated

Release fuel pressure, disconnect negative cable from battery-remove fuel from tank unstrap it remove fuel pump