Gas gauge does not work?

First of all, the ABS light circuit is monitored by the ABS computer. If you turned on the ignition switch while the cluster was removed, there will be a diagnostic fault code in memory and the light will be on. You will have to find a mechanic with the Chrysler DRB2 or DRB3 scanner that can access the ABS computer to read and erase the fault code. There are a few aftermarket scanners that can do this now too.

How, (and why), did you replace the fuel pump? If the engine was running, you didn't need a pump. Many aftermarket pumps are just the pump and motor that you will have to stick in the housing. This has nothing to do with the gauge sending unit.

The easiest way to troubleshoot this circuit is to ground the dark blue wire with yellow stripe at the pump electrical connector, then turn on the ignition switch. If the fuel gauge goes to full, the sending unit or one of the ground wires in the connector is the problem. The most common problem is an intermittent connection on the float arm but the typical symptom is the gauge goes to empty when the fuel level is between 1/2 and 1/4. It usually reads correctly above 1/2 tank and below about 1/4 tank. The fix is to simply pop the float arm off and bend the contact a little, then snap it back on.

Caradiodoc

Hey,

Great addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out on the site whenever it can add information that will help.

Best, Ken

THe float level gauge in the fuel tank is bad. It has a rheostat that goes bad. THe bad part is the float gauge is part of the fuel pump and is replaced as a unit which means you need a new fuel pump too even though it works fine.

You need to either remove the fuel tank to access it or remove the bed. I personally remove the bed. THere are 8 bolts that hold it on and then you need to unplug the wiring to the tail lights and the bed comes off. Even though there are only two bolts holding the tank in, they are usually rusted and difficult to get out.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Joe

I hate to say it, but the fuel pump and float are one unit. Honestly, there are 8 bolts that hold the bed on the truck. I can have one off in 30 minutes. Once the bolts are off, all you have to do is disconnect the wiring to the tail lights and lift off the bed with a helper. That exposes the fuel tank and pump. It is easy to replace. One other thing, there are three screws that hold the filler tube to the bed. They need removed also for the bed to come off. The pump is around 150.00 at most parts stores. Maybe even less. That is my recommendation. NOTE: It is actually easier to remove the bed than it is to pull the tank. The retaining bolts on the tank straps are usually rusted and break. Also, the tank is heavy. Plus, it is made of plastic and is easy to crack if not positioned correctly when reinstalling. Trust me. I've done enough of them. Just remove the bed, replace the pump, and your problems will be solved.

What does it do?

Chances are the rheostat on the float is bad. This is a common problem. The bad part. It is part of the fuel pump and has to be replaced as a unit and it is in the fuel tank.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Joe