1992 Dodge Dakota i have trouble codes 11,12,22,32,37, and

Hi greenchevymalibu,

Thank you for the donation.

What is the engine capacity?
Was the trouble code erased and retested?
The title heading was truncated due to lack of space so the last part is missing. Can you please update on it?

Code 11 = No reference signal during cranking. This could have been set when the distributor failed. If the code is new, the replacement distributor could be bad as well.

Code 12 is not listed in our database but it should be related to the distributor as well. Reconfirm the code.

Code 22 = Coolant sensor voltage too low or too high. A possible fault with the coolant sensor and that can cause difficult starting and poor running.

Code 32 = EGR solenoid circuit or EGR system failure.

Code 37 = Torque converter lock-up solenoid circuit open or shorted detected.

If the distributor is adjustable, it is possible the ignition timing is incorrect due to the installed position.

I would suggest erasing the trouble codes, run engine and recheck the trouble codes.

i reset pcm and same codes. I didn't move the engine when installing distributor and i check three times and ever time i checked top dead center the rotor was pointing to the number one cylinder mark on the pick up coil. i checked the crank senor and at 20k resistance i got 5.5 is that good or bad? the last code was 55 which means end of codes

What is the engine capacity? There are a few variations and have different testings procedures and specifications.

It is a 3.9 v6 auto

See if the following helps. It is for setting the ignition timing. If it fails, either the diatributor is bad or the PCM has failed due to the old distributor shorting out.
 

Set motor up to number one compression, and keep turning the crank until you get to the V6 mark on the balancer and align that on the zero mark on the timing cover. You may have to sand on the balancer to reveal the V6 mark , but it is there. Then with your DVOM hooked to the signal wire of the cam sensor, turn the distributor until you see the meter deflect from zero volts to five volts, and try to get the distributor set in a place where it is in the middle of zero and the five volts ,and lock down your distributor there.

 

Where is my cam sensor? I though this truck doesn't have one.do i hook it up to the pick up coil? can i test my pcm?

The cam sensor mentioned is located inside the distributor. It is also known as sync pick-up. But for Code 11, the problem is more likely to be the crank sensor.

TEST NS-9A - REPAIRING FAULT "NO REFERENCE SIGNAL DURING CRANKING"

1.Disconnect crank position sensor, located on engine block at rear of right cylinder head. Turn ignition on. Place DRB-II in voltmeter mode. Probe Gray/Black wire in crank position sensor connector. If voltage is greater than 4.5 volts, go to step 4). Turn ignition off. Disconnect engine controller 60-pin connector. Place DRB-II in ohmmeter mode.

2.Probe engine controller connector terminal No. 24 (Gray/Black wire). If resistance is less than 10 ohms, repair Gray/Black wire for a short to ground. Perform VERIFICATION TEST VER-1. If resistance is 10 ohms or more, check continuity of Gray/Black wire between engine controller and crank position sensor connectors.

3.If resistance is less than 10 ohms, replace engine controller. Perform VERIFICATION TEST VER-1. If resistance is 10 ohms or more, repair open Gray/Black wire. Perform VERIFICATION TEST VER-1.

4.If voltage is greater than 4.5 volts in step 1), probe Orange wire in crank position sensor connector. If voltage is 7.5 volts or less, go to step 6). If voltage is greater than 7.5 volts, turn ignition off. Place DRB-II in ohmmeter mode.

5.Probe Black/Light Blue wire in crank position sensor connector. If resistance is less than 10 ohms, replace crank position sensor. Perform VERIFICATION TEST VER-1. If resistance is 10 ohms or more, repair Black/Light Blue wire for an open to splice. Perform
VERIFICATION TEST VER-1.

6.If voltage in step 4) is 7.5 volts or less, turn ignition off. Disconnect engine controller connector. Place DRB-II in ohmmeter mode. Probe engine controller connector terminal No. 7. If resistance is less than 10 ohms, repair Orange wire for a short to ground. Disconnect battery quick disconnect. Reconnect battery quick disconnect. Perform VERIFICATION
TEST VER-1.

7.If resistance is 10 ohms or more, check Orange wire for continuity between engine controller and crank position sensor connectors using a DVOM. If resistance is less than 10 ohms, replace engine controller. Perform VERIFICATION TEST VER-1. If resistance is 10 ohms or more, repair Orange wire. Perform VERIFICATION TEST VER-1.


VERIFICATION TEST VER-1
1.Inspect vehicle to ensure all engine components are connected. Reassemble and reconnect components as necessary. Attempt to start engine. If engine does not start, return to TEST NS-1A.

2.If engine starts, engine controller was changed and vehicle is equipped with factory theft alarm, start vehicle at least 20 times so alarm system may be activated when desired. Write vehicle mileage from its odometer to memory location within replacement engine controller. This will enable new engine controller to operate Emission Maintenance Reminder (EMR) light properly. On all models, no-start condition is corrected and repair is now complete.

3.If engine starts and engine controller has not been changed, connect DRB-II to engine diagnostic connector, and erase faults. No-start condition has been corrected and fault messages have been erased. Repair is now complete. If repaired fault has reset, check if any TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETINS (TSBs) apply to vehicle. Return to TEST DR-1A if
necessary. If another fault exists, return to TEST DR-1A and follow path specified by other fault.

© 2008 Mitchell Repair Information Co., LLC.

There are no recommended way of testing the PCM. Usually the circuit concerned is tested and if everything is confirmed to be good, the PCM is recommended to be substituted to test.

thanks for the help tonight I'll do these tests and let you know my results.

OK so i got the truck in time. I changed the crank sensor. I took out the old one and it was rubbing on the flywheel. I then used a timing gun to get the distributor in time. It starts up but then it dies like as it is out of gas. when i push on the fuel release valve on the fuel rail fuel comes out but so does a lot of bubbles and it seems to be more bubbles then gas so i'm getting air in the fuel line. I think either i have a leaking hose or where the fuel lines meet the rail the quick connects are leaking. Tomorrow or the next day I'm going to check the fuel psi at the fuel rail. What should my fuel pressure be and what else can i check that works with the fuel?

The fuel pressure should be 39 psi +/1 2 psi.

When there are too much bubble in the system, it might be due to the fuel pump not working or insufficient fuel in the tank.

Check if the fuel pump is priming when ignition is turned on.

the pump does prime when i turn the key.

If the pump is priming and there is no pressure buildup, check the pressure regulator. Clamp the return hose and turn ignition ON. If pressure builds up, the regulator is bad.

If pressure does not build up, check for leakages and if none fould, you need to check the fuel pump hoses and their connections

how do i take out the fuel pressure regulator?

You would need to remove the fuel rail to get at the pressure regulator.

FUEL INJECTOR RAILS - PFI (3.9L & 5.2L)
Removal
1.Release fuel system pressure. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove air cleaner. Remove throttle body from intake manifold.
Remove air conditioning compressor-to-intake manifold support bracket (if equipped).

2.Disconnect fuel injector wiring connectors (injector connectors are numerically tagged for installation reference). Remove vacuum line from fuel pressure regulator.

3.Disconnect intake manifold charge air temperature sensor connector. DO NOT remove sensor.

4.Remove EVAP canister purge solenoid/bracket assembly from intake manifold.
Disconnect 2 rear fuel rail fuel lines, and remove remaining fuel rail mounting bolts.

5.Gently rock and pull on left fuel rail and then right fuel rail until injectors start to clear intake manifold. Repeat procedure until injectors clear intake manifold, and remove fuel rail with injectors attached.

Installation
1.Position fuel rail/injector assembly on intake manifold openings. Using care not to tear "O" rings, guide each injector into intake manifold. Push right and then left fuel rail down until injectors are bottomed on injector shoulder.

2.To complete installation, reverse removal procedure. Connect negative battery cable, and check for leaks.

© 2008 Mitchell Repair Information Co., LLC.

I still haven't checked the psi since i haven't got my tester in the mail yet but i'm not getting fuel after it gets sent to the fuel rail. I can hold the release valve down and no fuel comes out. I can take the sending fuel line off and the pump will pump out a cup of fuel. So I'm assuming my problem is the fuel pressure regulator.

At the line that you took off, use your finger to close it and let the pump run, if pressure is not high, you have a problem from the pump side.

At the pressure regulator, use a clamp to clamp on the return hose and check if pressure builds up.

my problem is no fuel is making it in to the fuel rail. It makes it through the line and then stops. I tested the pump and it has good pressure. I cant figure out why it would stop at the rail unless the pressure regulator was bad. It looks like it has to go through the regulator to get in to the fuel rail.

The line plugged into the presure regulator is for fuel return. If this is the hose that the fuel pump is sending fuel, the return and delivery line has been swapped.

Fuel has to get to the rail before the pressure regulator allows excess fuel to return to the tank.

ok tested the fuel pressure and it stands at 2 p.s.i.

Clamp the return hose and if the pressure reading is still same, the fuel pump is at fault.

Check if there is sufficient fuel in tank.
Check the in-tank fuel pump hoses and strainer for leakages.

'92 5 speed was quitting and finally would not start. Needed a break so I disconnected the battery. No codes and so far running perfectly. Had replaced several coils and a crank sensor.

You need to start a new question, and PLEASE list the engine size when you have an engine running problem. This is a conversation between just two or three people. When you piggyback onto it, none of the other experts will see it or have a chance to reply. That does you a disservice. Also, your description is real confusing. Why did you disconnect the battery? Doing that erased any diagnostic fault codes, so that valuable information is long gone. The common codes related to crank / no-starts often don't set from just cranking the engine. They set while a stalled engine is coasting to a stop. If the engine is running perfectly, what is the question?