1991 Dodge Dakota

Tiny
KENDRA.BELL
  • MEMBER
  • 1991 DODGE DAKOTA
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 159,000 MILES
I am experiencing problems with my truck cranking after it has sat for more than six hours. I ijust got a new battery and new fuel pump, but its still doing the same thing. When I drive it cuts off and like its getting no gas or soomething.
Monday, August 23rd, 2010 AT 9:13 AM

3 Replies

Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
Are you having a cranking problem or a starting problem?
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Monday, August 23rd, 2010 AT 9:17 AM
Tiny
KENDRA.BELL
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Both it takes a long time to get it started. It will turn over but it just wont crank and then when it do crank it wont stay crunk but after I get it crunk up and drive it it will crank with no problem through out the day, but if it just sit for more than six hours I experience the same problems all over again.
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Monday, August 23rd, 2010 AT 12:22 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
Turn over and crank mean the same thing. If it's cranking but not starting, all I can do is give you the standard isolation tests that we run.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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Monday, August 23rd, 2010 AT 12:29 PM

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