Heater core removal

Tiny
KARNSEM
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  • 1994 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 134,000 MILES
Thinking seriously about removing the heater core to inspect its condition. Windshield fogging, serious bad smell coming from the vents and giving me a serious headache, antifreez not leaking, nor on the carpet tho.

Do I need to remove the steering from the steering column in order to remove the heater core?

I Subscribed ALL DATA for this job but still need help before I decide if I can tackle it.

Thanks.
Monday, May 17th, 2010 AT 9:16 PM

24 Replies

Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
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No the steering wheel does not need removed. Alldata should include all steps necessary for removing and installing the heater core, but just in case you didn't get it all I will post Mitchell1's version for you. .


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/261618_Noname_2185.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/261618_Noname2_708.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/261618_Noname3_265.jpg




https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/261618_Graphic_510.jpg




https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/261618_Graphic2_76.jpg

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Monday, May 17th, 2010 AT 10:40 PM
Tiny
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Thanks for speedy response, combined withALL DATA, they'll be helpful.
However, I have no yet donated, but I will, right after this posting.
The instrucions you posted are too small to read when printed, although I enlarge them 200% on the screen but cannot print them larger than they are on the screen. Anyway to print them larger?

Thanks.
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Tuesday, May 18th, 2010 AT 12:01 PM
Tiny
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Sure give me your email addy and I can email to you, then you can make them larger and print them larger.
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Tuesday, May 18th, 2010 AT 4:05 PM
Tiny
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Thanks, email: kumintonso@aol. Com
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Tuesday, May 18th, 2010 AT 8:05 PM
Tiny
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Thanks, the email received, however, without the dash image included.

And I'm having problem making it larger to print. Don't know why.
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Wednesday, May 19th, 2010 AT 9:29 AM
Tiny
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Ok I sent new email, see if it looks any better, I had to send in a few different files instead of just 2 though.
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Wednesday, May 19th, 2010 AT 12:31 PM
Tiny
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Thanks, your email received and successfully printed.

Now looking forward to take the van to AC guy to
discharge the system and order a new a Auminum Gasket before I start the task. Refrigerant oil?
I'll keep in touch.
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Wednesday, May 19th, 2010 AT 6:07 PM
Tiny
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Just started this monter job today, (heatercore/ac evaporator removal), the way I see it, the whole dash has to come out unless I'm wrong.

I'm having difficulties locating "right and left panel silencer"under the dash. What do they look like?

So far about 50% or more of the dash panel removed, I need help regarding the above questions. Anyone? Thanks
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Tuesday, July 6th, 2010 AT 11:16 PM
Tiny
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The silencer panels are the plastic trim pieces that sit beside the driver's legs. The right trim will be to the right of the driver's right leg and visa versa for other. It's just plastic paneling that is held on by several plastic clips in the back of it and maybe a few screws.
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Wednesday, July 7th, 2010 AT 6:07 PM
Tiny
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Thanks for the response, I'm sure I over did it, almost every panel is removed except the airbags and speedometer. The instructions are not detailed enough for me espercially without more pictures.

Well I managed, the ac and heater core housing is removed, antifreeze leaks are all over inside the housing.
I used break cleaner by the suggestion of a mechani c to clean the housing but unfottunately the ac mode door and the temperature door inside the ac/heater housing got sprayed-on and the foam pads covering these doors were eaten thru by the break cleaner. The ac mode door got the worse of it.(Should've been care tho).

I'm going shopping, junkyard/dealer for replacement.
If unsuccessful, then I, m hopiong for suggestions about some kind of adhesive stuff to paste/spray on these doors and use a new foam pads covering on them?
Any suggestions? Thanks.
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Wednesday, July 7th, 2010 AT 7:47 PM
Tiny
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3M Adhesive Spray is a very great spray glue that comes to mind. I have used it for several headliner repairs so i'm certain it would hold up for what you need.
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Wednesday, July 7th, 2010 AT 11:08 PM
Tiny
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What really can be used to seal the heater/ac box including the blower motor part of the housing unit?

90 percent of the original sealer is still in place and feel very pliable.
Someone suggested Permatex #2, another, Rope calking? What do you suggest?
Thanks.
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Friday, July 23rd, 2010 AT 7:08 PM
Tiny
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Permatex 2 will not harden and is designed for sealing cut gaskets, I wouldn't go with this. Use a water based duct sealer instead. They produce less fumes so it's safer to use and much easier to clean up.
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Friday, July 23rd, 2010 AT 9:40 PM
Tiny
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Thanks, I like the water-base duct sealer route, 'less fumes and easy to clean'.

Any particular kind water-based duct sealer or the're all the same?

You mentioned that "permatex will not harden". Is that a good thing or bad for this project?

Would water-based duct sealer harden?

Just trying to learn something here.
Thanks again for your patience and response.
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Saturday, July 24th, 2010 AT 7:46 AM
Tiny
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They are pretty much all the same, some brands may just offer a better warranty or come in different size tubes than others.
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Saturday, July 24th, 2010 AT 12:34 PM
Tiny
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I appreciate your response and the links.

Do you know if water-based duct sealer will harden or pliable, like the factory-original used on this heater/ac box?

Thanks.
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Saturday, July 24th, 2010 AT 1:07 PM
Tiny
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Some do and some don't so just make certain on the tube/can it says that it is designed to harden. I know that the QC CEMSEAL brand does harden, but others such as MASTIC does not fully harden.
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Saturday, July 24th, 2010 AT 1:10 PM
Tiny
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The factory seal on this box is not harden, it comes right off. So then I'll be looking for the MiISTIC kind not fully harden?
Thanks.
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Saturday, July 24th, 2010 AT 2:00 PM
Tiny
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Yep, correct.
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Saturday, July 24th, 2010 AT 2:30 PM
Tiny
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Thanks.
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Sunday, July 25th, 2010 AT 6:48 PM

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