Diagnosing wrong electrical wiring?

Good morning, the 8th digit is P. I think the problem of the car started when the horn stopped working. I told the mechanic to replace it. I think the one that came with the car is one, but he replaced it with two. He used one power wire for the two horns and cut off the black wire (ground). The next mechanic who tried to resolve that issue is the one that made this connection. The green/red wire goes into the yellow relay. He joined a black/green wire from the 14k733 harness to green/red wire from the relay. It is the green/red wire that is not attached to any connector. It is left exposed. The image of how the BJB looks like now is added. No further tests have been done by any other mechanic as I try to gain some knowledge first. Thanks

This is the wire from the harness 14k733 and connector. The other one is the wires and connectors to the fans. I can see a wire missing or is this how it supposed to be? Thanks

Greetings. I am very happy about the response. This is the VIN 1fafp33p32w318992. The color of the wire to the horn is a match, dirt blurred the image. I can't obtain a clearer view at the moment. I can also affirm it is one horn that came with the car, but he replaced it with two, maybe that was what was available then. He created that splice to share power to both. The physics I can't figure out is that, will this not lead to excess power consumption. Another responsible factor is the ground wire he severed. When I checked the factory wiring diagrams which I bought recently, the horn, fan and headlamps share the same ground G56. That was what raised my suspicions as this connection is the possible cause of the power draining of the battery. The whole scenario actually panned out this way. The power steering pressure switch was leaking the fluid away. We couldn't find an immediate replacement. They blasted it to seal it off. This led to the quick damage of the power steering as the pulley is shattered into pieces. The mechanic was paid to replace it. He replaced only the pulley. In no distant time, the pulley started leaking fluid onto the alternator. The alternator indicator was showing in the instrument panel. I woke one morning to meet a dead battery. The battery was replaced with a new one. Then the oil pressure light started showing on the instrument panel too. Both the alternator and oil pump were replaced. After that the two indicators continue to flicker. Then the headlamps went off. Then the radiator fan stopped working. It is at this point the second mechanic made those relays connections. I just discovered another relay that is also laid outside BJB. I attached the image. I have difficulty translating the schematic to real life interpretation. I strongly believe the problem lies with the ground G56 and these relays wiring. The main concern is how can these relays wiring be restored to optimum functioning. Thanks very much for the assistance and support. Every contribution is well appreciated. Thanks, and merry Christmas to you.

Good day, further observation revealed the purple relay has this part number V23134-K55-Ã 370. I assumed it to be the power hold relay. Orange and yellow wire entered its 4 and 5 pin. The red wire that entered is cut off. I think the fan motor relay is the yellow with part number V23134-B52-x127. Orange, yellow, green and brown wire entered its 1, 2, 3and 5 pin. There's a component with 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 pin. Green/red, green/black and black wire entered its 4, 6, and 7 pin. The mechanic connect it between harness 14k733 and the fan relay. I just want to know what supposed to be connected to these relays and which component has this 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7 pin but only three pins are active. The mechanic joined the yellow relay to another black relay through wire. I also do not know which relay is that. Thanks for all you do.

Good day, the engine has been set in its compartment. I figured the wire into the ignition coil capacitor is dislodged. They try to crank the engine. The crankshaft is rotating but no fire to the spark plug. What's the possible cause? In case it is the capacitor, will putting the wire into the hole make it work. How can we test if the capacitor is still in good condition? He also tests the fuse with ohmmeter, there is no light in fuse 1 and 2. I don't know if I am giving good meaning to it if it was conducted in engine switch off or ignition. Thanks very much. Do have a great day!

Greetings,

According to the mechanic, he inserted the wire (green with blue tracer) into the capacitor f6cf 18801 aa before carrying out the test. He ruled the capacitor out. He also said the fuse are fine. He is insinuating that the transmission range sensor or the crankshaft position sensor could be faulty. He further said the PCM is not receiving signal. My reservation is that what could possibly make these sensors not to work again because the reason I parked the car was the last mechanic did wrong timing. This resulted in a clattering noise coming from the engine. I found out about that, which has just been corrected now with the repairs of the valves. I parked the car in limp mode operation system. Where I parked the car, water rising into the engine when rain falls but after these whole period, when the ignition is turned on, the various indicator lights tuns on the instrument panel. My major concern was to repair the cylinder head and conduct a parasitic draw test or find out what is causing the components to malfunction. After the valve repairs, he is pointing at sensor now, I
was thinking he will be troubleshooting in circuit. Retrospectively, when I woke up to meet a dead battery, the mechanic opened the under-hood fuse box and did some disconnection. The car has a small switch security, which he removed in order to drive the car out that day. From that day, I have to join the switch wires in order for me to switch on the car. I can't remember the fuse he touched. Looking out for possible sources of the problem. He said he wants to get the sensor, I gave him go ahead. My curiosity is still in doubt. I don't know his stance. Every contribution is welcome.

Good day, it has been pleasant discussing with you. I changed the hands handling the car just discovered that, it is the timing that is causing the resistance to start. In order to set the timing, do they need to set the TDC without the drive belt? With the engine already in the compartment, you remove the drive belt and set piston 1, 3, 4 and 2. Then install the drive belt. If that is the case, how do you set the ninth teeth to align with the CPS or from what I watched on YouTube, by mere turning the crankshaft, the crankshaft and the cam will align automatically. Does it matter to put the gear in neutral. Does the procedure involves the flywheel. Thanks for your contributions.

Thanks for the being there. It is single overhead cam.

Good morning, after turning the crankshaft, the cam marker is pointing downward instead of the tiny hole in the cylinder head. Assuming every other work that has been done is wrong. How do we start the timing process all over. Can I get a video for this? Thank you very much.

Good day and happy Sunday to you, I have been absent for a while to attend to some other personal issues. At the peak of the job on my car, I am considering the key as the reason th why the car is not starting. I misplaced both keys that came with the car. I ordered a pair on Amazon that has already been cut without a chip. I gave it to a mechanic who programmed it. He brought out the steering column in order to cut it to mechanically match it. After the job, the key couldn't lock the driver's door which was used as standard for the other doors. When I turn on the ignition, the radio lights display and wipers are working. I assumed it was the timing, so I ignored till the timing is corrected. Now, could it be that the PATS is not well programmed and the last mechanic is right that the PCM is not receiving signal. Thanks for your help.