Parasitic draw test problem

How did you perform this test and how long did you wait after connecting the equipment?

It sounds like you did it right but if you care to double check yourself
Try pulling up on the brake pedal to see if the drain goes down. If it does, check the adjustment of the brake light switch. You can also unplug it.

You posted "unplugged fuse number went down.006 amps".

Do you mean it went down that little or it went down TO.006 amps? If it went down to that amount, you'll have to follow that circuit to where it splits to different things, then unplug them one at a time. I can't get any of my Ford service manual DVDs to work and I have never been able to get onto their web site, (boy I sure miss paper books!), So even if you listed the fuse number, I don't have access to a wiring diagram. If you don't have a service manual, I'll try to figure something else out.

The shift interlock is controlled by the "Smart Junction Box" which is a fuse box with a lot of incorporated relays and modules that are not serviceable individually. They have a lot of problems with these boxes, some because of them getting wet and others are just failures. It's very difficult to diagnose positively also.

Thanks Wrenchtech. So is module replacement the best way to see if it solves the current draw?

This isn't just a module. It's a fuse box with multiple modules and relays built into it. It will likely have to be replaced but really should be troubleshooted more by an electrical tech to be sure.

.2 amps is nothing so don't worry about that. Here is a guide to help us get started:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

Please run down this guide and report back.