Dash lights on

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

Wow! I have no idea what a TPMS had to do with this, but then again, I don't know what was done. Often times, a computer is used to via the data link connector to reprogram. Also, most of the things you mentioned could be related to a damaged wheel speed sensor AKA an ABS sensor which may have been damaged in some way when the wheel was removed to replace the sensor. However, the battery light has me confused.

What I suggest is to have the computer scanned to identify the trouble codes.

Most parts stores will scan it for free. If it is safe to drive, have that done. If you have or can get a scanner, here is a quick video showing how it's used. Once I get the trouble codes stored, I will have a better idea of what may be causing the problem.

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

Do this and let me know what you find.

Joe

I honestly don't know what to say. The TPMS is in the tire (wheel), so it doesn't make sense. Unless something was damaged when they removed the wheel or lifted the vehicle.

You mentioned the battery light is on. Is the battery going dead?

Joe

Hi Danny:

It's hard to tell what they did. There are different ways of relearning the TPMS. I have a tool that I basically copy the old sensor and then transfer it to a new sensor. That is only one way. However, none of them are related to the issues you now have. I want you to do me a favor. Since the light is on, I suspect the alternator isn't recharging the battery. Do this simple test to confirm it for me.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Hi:

I need you to have the computer scanned so I know if codes are present. Hopefully, I'll be able to determine a correlation between all of them. It sounds like one of the wheel sensors may have been damaged. That would turn everything on you mentioned except the battery light. That is what is confusing me. If the VDC light is on, that could be why the problem exist with not wanting to drive over 10 mph. Basically, the computer is limiting power to the wheels to prevent slipping.

Have the codes read and let me know what they are.

Take care,
Joe

Wow! Have you contacted them to let them know what happened? Everything that is wrong doesn't tie together other than what I said. I would hope they could recheck their work.

I am going to ask another tech here for his opinion. You may see a response from Ken. He is excellent and may know exactly what to check. Lets see if he has any different ideas.

Joe

Hi Danny:

If you have a volt meter or a multi meter, it's really easy to check the alternator yourself. First, check battery voltage with everything off. It should be at 12 volts or slightly above. Then, start the engine. Voltage at the battery should be around 14 volts. Here are links that explain it more in detail as well as using a multi meter:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Let me know what you find. Also, if it is just the brake light and nothing else, make sure the brake fluid is full.

Joe

It sounds like the car is going into limp mode which can be caused by a dirty throttle bore which loses correlation between the throttle pedal sensor and the throttle actuator. I would service the throttle bore to see what happens. Disconnect the battery first.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

Check the alternator voltage output as well. Please run down this guide and report back.