CV axle comes out

There's a spring inside the inner CV joint that has broken. That spring pressure keeps the joint pushed into the transmission. If you can't find a spring at the Ford dealer's parts department, you can find a similar spring at the Chrysler dealer's parts department. Cost is about $3.00.

I don't know how Ford does this. Chrysler had to use three or four half-shaft suppliers because no one of them could produce them fast enough. While all the shafts interchange on the car, parts on them did not. The way to get the right part was to look at the shaft number on a large yellow sticker, then at the parts department, they had a chart that listed the part number for each boot, the inner joint, the outer joint, and all the other parts on that shaft. That way you knew you were getting the right boot, for example, for your shaft. What it boiled down to for that spring was one common part number that worked in every joint. It was about three inches long and about an inch in diameter.

Because different suppliers used different inner joint designs, there's no way to know how to take it apart until you see it. Some have a large wire ring inside that must be pried loose, then popped out. Some have a large metal ring with three really fat tabs that have to be pried, (bent) up just enough to allow the larger rollers to be pulled out.

Speaking of those rollers, hold onto them when they come out. Those on Chrysler joints are held onto the tripod with circular clips, but on some other manufacturer's cars, I've seen people scurrying around their workbench after the rollers fell off, then there's a whole bunch of thin needle bearing in there that can get lost. If you see that a roller can be slid off, wipe them clean, then wrap masking tape around all three of them to hold them on. If you do this often, the tape isn't needed, as we just pop the tripod out, switch the spring, then pop it all back together.

The bands holding the boot on the large end are of different designs too. If yours is really thick, with a small folded-over crimp, you can loosen those with a side cutter, (wire cutter). Hold it loosely while wiggling it back and forth. That will loosen the crimp enough to let you unhook the end of it. Use the side cutter later to tighten that crimp. The special tool can be used to loosen and to crimp it again the same way, if you have one of those. It is a special pliers that you might be able to borrow from an auto parts store that rents or borrows tools.

You're right; I looked up the half shaft and they do not show a spring. It appears they just rely on that little circlip to hold the joint in place. I was going to suggest stretching that clip, but you did that twice already.

Is it possible there is a collapsed engine or transmission mount that is letting that side of the drive train sag? That can change the angle the joint travels through, and affect the length changes as it rotates. Beyond that, I just left a message with a friend who used to be the suspension and alignment specialist at the local Ford dealer. I might have a better answer tomorrow.

Just got the call from my friend. His first thought was a collapsed transmission mount. Next, he mentioned the seal you replaced. If there is a lip on it, you can tell when it's fully seated by just looking at it. For those that don't have a lip, it is possible to not pound it in far enough, then it will prevent the inner joint from going in far enough for the circlip to seat. He also mentioned frustration with new circlips that are too fat to fit in place. He always ends up reusing the old ones. I remember that many years ago on my friend's Dodge Aries. Those K-cars used that clip too.

Hope that's the solution. Please keep us posted.