Intermittent shutting off while accelerating, Crankshaft or Camshaft?

NICOLE LYNCH

MEMBER
2012 HYUNDAI ACCENT
1.6L
AUTOMATIC
150,000 MILES

Basically, what happens is that when my car is accelerating sometimes it will stall. The car itself is still running but even if I touch the gas it won’t move. When this happens, my RPMs will stay at 0, the battery light and oil pressure light come on as well. If I cut the car off and then on again it will start but I have to hold it until it turns over (about 5-8 seconds) and then it will cut on. The battery and oil light goes off, but the RPMs will sometimes still stay at zero even if the car moves.

5 Replies

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,740 POSTS

Hi,

This is an interesting one. So, the engine will not shut off, but all the warning lights will turn on, but the tachometer goes to 0. Is that correct?

When you say the tachometer goes to 0, that leads me to think a crankshaft position sensor may be failing. However, in most cases, the engine will shut off if that is the cause.

Do me a favor. When this happens and the vehicle is still running, gently move the ignition key back and forth a small amount to see if things begin to work again. If they don't, the can-bus system needs to be scanned.

Here is what I recommend. We need to scan the can-bus. I need to know what code is present or if there are any present. To retrieve these types of codes, you will need to scan the can-bus system. CAN stands for controller area network.

Basically, all the different modules are tied together via a few wires. This type of scan will retrieve codes regardless of the module storing them. This is what needs to be done to determine the correct diagnosis for your vehicle

Here is a link that shows how it's done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/can-scan-controller-area-network-easy

Let me know if that is something you can do or have done.

Take care,

Joe

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Thursday, September 7th, 2023 AT 5:57 PM

NICOLE LYNCH

MEMBER
3 POSTS

Thank you so much for replying, what you said about the tachometer and RPMs is completely correct. Once I turn the car back on, it has a hard start. Usually, the RPMs stay at 0 but the two warning lights are always off. As far as the scan I should be able to do this, my dad has one that he has used for my past check engine lights, which were taken care of (not on anymore). I would also like to mention that I just got a new battery, and I had my alternator tested as well. Both are running in photos condition. I will also try the key thing.

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Thursday, September 7th, 2023 AT 6:09 PM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,740 POSTS

Hi,

Nicole, you are very welcome. I just hope I can help. LOL Not having the vehicle in front of me can make things more challenging.

Regardless, let's give it our best shot. Let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe

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Thursday, September 7th, 2023 AT 7:16 PM

NICOLE LYNCH

MEMBER
3 POSTS

Hello! I wanted to let you know that I think we have found the problem. As of two days ago I had a check engine light come on, and was finally able to have a test ran. The code for it was the code for the Knock Sensor ignition piece. That was the only code though. I’m going to replace this sensor and hope that this will fix the problem.

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Sunday, September 10th, 2023 AT 6:31 PM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,740 POSTS

Hi,

Thanks for the update. I'm glad to know you were able to get a code.

If you look below, I attached the directions for replacing the knock sensor. I don't know if you need them, but I figure I would add them just in case. Also, if you let me know the code that was found, I can see if there is anything other than the sensor that may have caused a problem and let you know.

Take care of yourself and if you have a chance, let me know if the sensor resolves the issues.

Joe

See pics below.

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