Cranks, no start

Tiny
JAY CLARK2
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 BMW E46
  • 2.5L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 125,000 MILES
When I turn on the car I see the brake light on (yellow) and ABS (yellow) and is constantly on. When I turn the car on and will not start but cranks. And will it run when the air intake boot damaged?
Saturday, July 21st, 2018 AT 12:39 PM

4 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com.

It sounds like you have a couple different problems. The ABS light is most likely the result of a bad wheel sensor. If you have a scanner, check to see if there is a code which indicates a bad wheel speed sensor. Also, make sure the brake fluid is not low. That can turn the lights on too.

As far as the no start, how badly damaged is the air intake tube? If it has restricted the air flow substantially, it could prevent the engine from running. On the other hand, if it is damaged after the mass air flow sensor, then the engine may run, but poorly at best because it is getting un-metered air into the engine.

If you can, take a picture of the damage you are referring to and upload it for me to see. Additionally, since the engine cranks but does not start, check to see if there is spark and fuel to the engine. Here are two links which describe how to check:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Saturday, July 21st, 2018 AT 9:58 PM
Tiny
JAY CLARK2
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Okay. A few more additional issues It was the computer so I installed a modified version EWS delete and immobilizer delete so those features are turned off permanently, it was the air intake boot that also kept it from starting and running. The A/C fan does not turn on so I suspect a (FSR) a final stage resistor, but not sure why the battery is being over charged by the alternator maybe a voltage regulator. And the transmission cog light comes on combined with the brakes sensor light. So let me know if you know what the issue is.
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Wednesday, July 25th, 2018 AT 7:50 PM
Tiny
JAY CLARK2
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2002 BMW 325I
  • 2.5L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 175,300 MILES
Okay. A few more additional issues It was the computer so I installed a modified version EWS delete and immobilizer delete so those features are turned off permanently, it was the air intake boot that also kept it from starting and running. The A/C fan does not turn on so I suspect a (FSR) a final stage resistor, but not sure why the battery is being over charged by the alternator maybe a voltage regulator. And the transmission cog light comes on combined with the brakes sensor light. So let me know if you know what the issue is. It starts and runs and drives in all gears runs smooth at idle 1/2 1000 rpm's been too nervous to take it on the streets to.
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Thursday, July 26th, 2018 AT 4:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Welcome back, Jay.

Wow, that is a big list. My biggest concern is the battery. If the alternator is over charging, that can actually lead to a lot of damaged components and even a fire. Please confirm the model for me. You listed it as two different vehicles.

I am going to focus on the 325 model since that is what I see in the picture. There are two different alternator designs for this vehicle. One is an MFR (multi function controller) and the other non MRF. However, the regulators are integral on both. I strongly recommend removing the alternator and having it bench tested. Most parts stores will do it for free. If it overcharges under test, replace it. That could be the cause of most of the problems you described.

Here is a general check for one:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

Here are general directions for removing the alternator:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

Here are specific directions for your vehicle:

Removing And Installing Or Replacing Alternator

Read out fault memories of control units. Turn off ignition.
Follow instructions for disconnecting and connecting battery.

Disconnect and cover battery negative terminal.

Remove intake filter housing.
Remove fan clutch.
Remove alternator drive belt.
Remove supply tank for power steering pump with bracket and place to one side.

NOTE: Lines on supply tank for power steering pump remain connected.
If fitted:
Disconnect air hose.
Disconnect plug connection (1).
Remove cover cap of connections.
Release nut (2) and remove battery positive lead.
Release alternator screws in succession while holding alternator firmly.
Remove alternator.
Version with tensioning roller:
Follow installation instruction.
Installation Note: Turning lock of tensioning roller must engage in alternator groove.

The attached pictures correlate with the directions listed.

Lets focus on one thing at a time. When too many things are done at once, it is too easy to mix things up. It is a nice looking car. We need to get it done correctly.

Let me know about the alternator.

Joe

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Saturday, July 28th, 2018 AT 8:44 PM

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