Cranks, Does not Turn. After some overhaul!

OLIVERALI

MEMBER
1996 INFINITI I30
3.0L
6 CYL
2WD
AUTOMATIC
230,000 MILES

Due to stalling at idle and oil leaks, I have replaced and repaired certain things on my infiniti, now it cranks but does not start!
Done the followings:
Replaced valve cover gaskets
many vacuum, fuel, and cooling hoses
cleaned Throttle body, ICV, and intake manifold.
Replaced Thermostat (Replaced antifreeze back in the radiator. Engine should still have some liquid left!)
Replaced fuel pressure regulator (Just in case) and fuel filter
Overhauled and cleaned injectors
Replaced spark plugs
Replaced All O2 Sensors
Replaced EGR BPT vacuum control valve
Cleaned EGR tube and EGR valve
Dropped the oil pan and cleaned it out. New oil filter. Filled with 4 14 quarts of oil.

I had taken pictures and marked hoses and checked all connections before first crank. After unsuccessful crank, I read that I may need to put oil in the oil filter, so I did. No success.
Then I pulled a spark pug and checked for firing, which I do. I have fuel after fuel filter and after pressure regulator. Don't have a fuel pressure gauge to check the pressure.
I had taken out my Camshaft Sensor and checked the ohm, it passed.

I am stumped! Please help!

4 Replies

WRENCHTECH

MECHANIC
20,761 POSTS

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

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Thursday, January 21st, 2016 AT 6:51 PM

OLIVERALI

MEMBER
3 POSTS

1- Tested, passed
2- I have to rent NOID light testers
3- Will need to rent this one also.

Since I drained the oil completely, (then filled it again) could it be that the oil pump is NOT pumping any oil? Would that hinder the start of the engine?

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Thursday, January 21st, 2016 AT 7:08 PM

OLIVERALI

MEMBER
3 POSTS

Found the issue. Fuel hoses were installed incorrectly! Yup! It is starting now. It is puzzling though! Shouldn't the fuel get filtered before it feeds the injectors! Well, my system seems to want to filter it after injectors and Fuel Pressure Regulator!
Also, now my coolant temp goes up to 210 F. It used to be around 190-200. I did change the Thermostat, but kept it at 82 degree C (180 F)! Is there a way to test the thermostat without taking it out! Could I have burned the water pump because I cranked the engine about 7-10 times?

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Friday, January 22nd, 2016 AT 4:38 PM

WRENCHTECH