Cranks but will not stay started

Here it is:

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com.

Based on the picture, that is a fuel pump resister. I attached a picture below (picture 1). This component is bypassed on startup which will allow power to the pump and the vehicle to start. When the key returns back to the run position, power goes through the resister to the pump. If the resister wiring is bad, it will start, but stall a very short time after.

The second picture I attached is a schematic of the fuel system.

The wiring needs repaired. If you feel the resister has been damaged, here are the directions for testing. See picture 3.

INSPECTION

1. REMOVE FUEL PUMP RESISTOR

2. INSPECT FUEL PUMP RESISTOR
Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the terminals.

Resistance: 0.70 to 0.76 Ohm at 20 °C (68 °F)

If the resistance is not as specified, replace the resistor.

3. REINSTALL FUEL PUMP RESISTOR

Torque: 8.0 Nm (82 kgf.cm,71 in-lbf)
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Here are two links that show how to use a volt / multi meter and how to check wiring.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

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I hope this helps. Let me know if you have other questions or need help.

Take care,
Joe

The fuel pump resister connects inside other wiring. How do I go about replacing and reconnecting?

The bundle of wires is what it connects to.

I am fairly sure it is just the connector wires that connect from the resister to that bundle of wires. Can I just change the connector wire?

Hi again. Yes, just make the necessary repairs and it should be fine. If this does not remedy the problem, let me know. But, I feel confident that is what is causing the issue.

Take care of yourself.

Joe

Thank you Joe! I will let you know.

Do they sell just the connector wire?

When looking the part up online, what would I look under?

I found some resistors that look very similar but are not exact. It does not have the back screw bracket.
Does this matter?

As far as finding that portion of the wiring harness, chances are you will not. And I am not sure what you mean by resistors. What I suggest is to simply cut out the damaged part of the wiring and using butt connectors, replace it with new wire.

Make sure to disconnect the battery negative cable before you start working on the wires.

As far as the bracket, it should be there to protect the component from bouncing or banging on things as you drive. You can use something like zip ties to hold it in place if needed.

When you say butt connectors I assume you are talking about the little wire connectors the connectors where you take two wires and screw the wires together using the plastic connector. Also, if I replaced damaged wire with new wire what type of wire do I use as the replacement? Where the wire from the fuel pump resistor connects to the other wire how do I disconnect it?

This picture is the back piece. It has a hole but no screw. Does it need to be on the replacement?

This is the piece where the connector is. How do I disconnect it?

On the opposite side of the component, there is a release on the connector. In the picture it is facing up (right side of the connector). Press that and wiggle the plug apart.