Cranks but no start?

Hi Lance,

Sorry we have not seen CJ in a while, but I can help, with the ignition key on do you have power at the positive side of the coil? Here is a guide that can help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

Yes. I’ve tested the coil primary and secondary cranking and non-crank. 1.8 ohms and secondary is 12.3 on 20k ohms.
I then took test light to coil and cranked it the light flashes in revolution with the motor cranking.

That is a good sign. Now remove the coil wire and check for spark, this video will show you how:

https://youtu.be/baq_aEWNQ0Y

If you have spark check it at the spark plug, if no spark is present replace the ignition rotor and cap.

Ignition rotor, cap, points, condenser has already been replaced.

Does it have spark?

No, not at the plugs.

Does it have spark from the coil? if not replace the coil. If so the spark is getting lost inside the distributor which would say ignition rotor.

Okay, thank you. I’ll will go back through the process.

Okay, so, I put a spark plug in the end of the wire coming from coil. How do I test the distributor? I put new points and cap on there which it probably didn’t need but anyways I was just adjusting the points one more time and when my alan wrench touched the points and another part of distributor, it arcs like makes a spark. Is that normal? I believe my key was still in the start position.

Yes, because you are near the 12 volt ignition supply. Did the spark plug spark? To test the distributor, you would do the same thing but at each plug. Let me know.

No spark from the plugs. Changed out cap and rotor same thing.

So, spark from the coil but not coming out the distributor? It must be bad plug wires; can you remove the wires from the cap to see if there is spark at the plug wire terminal?

No spark from the end of wires.

so, you are losing it between the coil and the plug wires. can you look under the cap to see if something is shorting it out?

Okay will do. I’ll get back to you tonight. thanks for your help.

Okay, removed cap turned key on and cranked motor with remote starter no short or sparks inside distributor.

Okay, I readjusted the points it will fire right up but dies right away unless I’m feeding it gas from the carb. It sounds really rough like it’s gargling and motor shakes. I can see fuel squirting from the jets into carb. I adjusted the idle gas screws out more but still won’t idle.

Hello. I’m not sure what’s going on either my acct or phone but I received notification that I got a response on my jeep not running however when I open it up there’s is nothing. Can you possibly send me your response again thank you. Where my cj7 stands now is got it started but it will not stay running.

Oh, wow there you are hope I’m not too late. No, it shuts off immediately. I’m using a remote starter so working the gas from the carb, but as soon as I stop so does the motor.

Yes, it shuts off immediately sorry for the delay I just got your questions and just know I’m checking every day for messages. Anyways no spit and sputter just shut off. When I’m trying to keep it going it sounds like it’s drowning or gargling.

Earlier in this process I did try the positive battery to positive coil and got nothing. So, 1960 GTO would have got me nowhere but jail, lol. Anyways you sent something that might be my issue. In the pics you can see I don’t have the fenders on. So not to scratch them and have more room. However, my makeshift fender might be providing bad ground.

Shuts off immediately. Answered this twice just to make sure you got it in another thread.

No problem, thank you. It sounds like the fuel pump is bad or you have a fuel line with a crack which allows the pump to suck in air and stop the pump from working.

Okay, I will investigate that as it fired right up today with a shot of carb cleaner, and it shut off. I do have a question in regard to the oil filler spout. Before I replaced the valve stem seals, I got a lot of fuming oil gas smoke blowby out of that spout. It was overwhelming. In fact, there was so much back pressure, it would blow the top off of it. I realize that the air filter intake scoop actually fits over it. But now there is steam blowing out of it and I mean it’s immediate. It’s not smoke, does have a little fuel smell but not much. I made sure to seal that valley pan good as it was my 4th time. I just feel like something is not right, there at the top of intake manifold. Even though we now think fuel pump, yet my plugs are fouled and wet. And the last strange scenario, when I started this journey and before I tore down too far, I did a compression test and combustion. After I connected the two-gauge inline pressure test hose into spark plug ports, one at a time, as I was trying to capture air in cylinder to hold pressure, that motor would belch it out through the carb never to hold pressure.

If you guys are still out there. I finally got the cj7 running but it’s surging up and down. I plugged all vacuum hoses to see if it was a leak, but I decided to unplug the large port in back of carb where booster hose goes. The idle went up with no more surge but just too high. I tried to adjust with the three screws and even turned the distributor to get a bad or good reaction but nothing. The screws are almost all the way in. I had to shut the motor off.