Cranks but no start

This sounds like a classic crankshaft angle sensor, but we should do some simple tests first. When the engine will not start remove one of the coils and check for spark. Here is a guide to show you how to do it, look toward the bottom of the article.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

Changed the crank sensor and still giving problem with dying and not cranking. Fuel pump relay pulls in and fuel pump runs (can hear each time we turn on ignition). I believe it may be the throttle position sensor/ body because we could push the accelerator down and it would start but ran rough. It acts like flooding out. After operating accelerator a few times it began running good. What do you think? Am I looking at replacing the TPS / Body (all made together)?

I think we should run the codes to see if anything comes up, Please follow this guide.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken

No check engine light illuminated so I suspect no codes stored. Or could it still be some stored codes without light being lit?

Yes it can store codes without the light being on. Please run the codes becasue if it does have a code it can help us fix the car.

I scanned and it says no codes.

When the car wont start does the ignition system have spark, you must remove one of the coils to find out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Also turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over to see if you can hear the fuel pump. Once we can determine which system is failing we can troubleshoot that particular system. It sounds like it can be a relay or fuel pump issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-electric-fuel-pump

Cheers, Ken

Every time I turn on the ignition I hear the relay pull in and the fuel pump runs.

That is good, does the engine have spark when the engine does not start?

Here is a guide

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Please let us know

Cheers, Ken

Checked and could not get spark. This is the list of parts I have replaced with new: Crankshaft sensor; Throttle Body with TPS; & MAF. Still doing same. Last time we drove made several stops and starts each time except for the last stop and it decided it would not start again. Checked fuel rail pressure port and plenty of fuel pressure. Finally got some pending codes: P0321; P107; P032; and P0103. We finally got car started by pressing throttle pedal all the way down and patting throttle pedal and it finally started but ran rough for awhile and then cleared up (like it was flooded). On the drive home it acted like it was going to die by spitting and sputtering on the interstate. Also noticed car would not go over 70 mph even though the pedal was to the floor and it acted like it wanted to die (that was the first time it did that).

Are you using a dealer level scan tool like a Ross-Tech VCDS unit? VW loves to use codes that don't show up on common scan equipment, my Verus hates them for anything but the basics.

That said, Check the wiring to the engine speed sensor (12 in the picture) and verify that the TPS is giving the correct information, The actual TPS is in the throttle pedal as part of the throttle position sensor, the actuator and feedback control is in the throttle body. As you keep saying that stepping on the pedal and or pumping it is helping and if the ECM doesn't see all 3 sensors in the pedal it won't start I would test it.

Book procedure for testing, images attached.
Checking voltage supply and wiring

Switch the ignition ON.
Using a multimeter, check the following wiring connections for voltage.
See Image 1

Switch the ignition OFF.

If the specified value was NOT obtained:
Remove the Motronic Engine Control Module (ECM) ( J220).

Using a multimeter, check the Throttle Position (TP) Sensor (G79)/Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 2 (G185) electrical harness connector terminals to the Motronic Engine Control Module (ECM) (J220) electrical connector T121 for an open circuit.

See image 2
Specified value: 1.5 ohms max.

If the specified value was NOT obtained:
Check the wiring for a short circuit to each other, Battery (+) or Ground or high resistance.
Check the electrical harness connector for damage, corrosion, loose or broken terminals.
If necessary, repair the faulty wiring connection.

If no fault is detected in the wiring and the voltage supply was OK:
Replace the Throttle Position (TP) Sensor (G79 )/Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 2 (G185).

If no fault is detected in the wiring and the voltage supply was NOT OK:
Replace the Motronic Engine Control Module (ECM) (J220).

After the repair work, the following work steps must be performed in the following sequence:

1. Check the DTC memory.
2. If necessary, erase the DTC memory.
3. If the DTC memory was erased, generate readiness code.

Do these test have to be checked when in a no starting mode or can even if the car will start can the testing be performed successfully?

Just need to be able to turn the key on/off to do them.