Crank no start when outside temperature is hot

I am little confused. When this happens, the engine cranks but does not start and the green key light flashes only when this is happening? Or does the green key light flash all the time?

Let's clarify this and then can we check for codes and make sure we don't have any?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Once we know this info we can go down the right path. Thanks

The green key light only flashes when it is having a problem starting. When it is in key position 2, the green key light flashes and when I try to start, it cranks but does not start. Once I cool down the car (open all of the doors and the hood and let it sit for 45 minutes or so), when I turn the key to position 2, it flashes a couple of times and turns off and the car starts right up.

I had a mechanic check for codes and he said there are none. He said the main relay was showing closed - both when it wouldn't start and when it did. Hopefully that means something to you.... because it means nothing to me.

Okay. You have a security issue. The theft light not going off is telling us that there is most likely a key issue. I attached the information explaining how this works.

Do you have another key that we can try to use when this is acting up?

I have 2 keys. One is the original and the second was programmed by the dealer in case the original died. It acts the same with both. This may sound crazy; but, sometimes while I am waiting on it to cool down, I have moved the steering wheel up and down and it has started. Mechanic thinks it is a coincidence.

That may be a coincidence but we need to prove that out. So unfortunately we need to wait for this to act up again and test this.

My thinking is that if we have an issue with the immobilizer unit connection to the ECM and if moving the steering wheel effects this then that gives us more to chase.

Let us know about this info. Thanks

So, we replaced the immobilizer unit Friday and it still did it. However, with the panels still off around the steering column, it started once I moved the steering wheel up and down. I have left off the panels so I can see in there; but, there are so many wires, I am not sure what to look for.

Okay. If it is working when moving the steering wheel up and down then we need to move those wires up and down to see if we can limit it down. Clearly there is a connection issue that we need to find. So moving the wiring around should help us narrow it down.

So, it has only been mid 80's this week until today. When it wouldn't start, I tried jiggling wires but did not find the right ones. Used the brake code to bypass the immobilizer and it started. Ideas?

I suspect you have a loose terminal in the connector for the immobilizer.

You can take the connector apart and try to tighten it but the best way is to replace the connector with new terminals. This will require finding a connector kit that is most likely available through the dealer. I attached a picture of a kit just so you understand what it is. This would require cutting the old connector out and soldering in the new wires.

Let's start with contacting the dealer to see if they have then available because I am not finding any online.

Okay. I will start looking and let you know. Thanks

Sounds great. Thanks for the update. Let us know how you make out. Thanks