Vehicle ran all day, parked overnight crank no start?

KEIHINCARB

MEMBER
1992 HONDA ACCORD
2.2L
4 CYL
2WD
MANUAL
280,000 MILES

Vehicle ran all day, parked overnight, Morning crank, no start. Vehicle RPMs are very low and it idles very slowly and then the engine stalls.

Spark: All 4 spark plugs produce spark, wire resistance measured Ok, External coil resistance measured ok per spec. Distributor (CKP, TDC, cylinder, resistance measured a little lower than spec, no red death bearing wobble.

Fuel: pressure within spec. Pump okay, filter, okay fuel pressure regulator okay, injectors pulsing okay.

Timing: (TDC). Aligned (distributor rotor point to 1, flywheel
mark at + pointer, overhead camshaft marking up arrow and
across cam surface.(No teeth jumping)

Compression: all 4 cylinder at 190-200 PSI. Good

Air: filter intake housing, clear.
Throttle body, IACV, EGR, cleaned

Sprayed carburetor cleaner into throttle body and
engine runs just fine until fuel source runs out.

Removed fuel rail and tie wrapped injectors Ignition on
/ cranked engine and observed sprayed petrol from each
injector.

Please help. Check next? Thanks
.

9 Replies

KEN L

MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
47,690 POSTS

So, you have compression, spark and fuel and it does not run except on starting fluid? This only leaves the fuel that is in the tank is bad. The injectors have pulse and spray fuel, correct?

If this is all true, here is a video to help you drain the tank and install fresh fuel:

https://youtu.be/Q5MH2gnyFH0

Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.

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Thursday, November 17th, 2022 AT 11:29 AM

KEIHINCARB

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Yes, the engine runs great (as normal) with carburetor fluid as fuel source.
Yes, Injector's all 4-spray fuel. (See photos).
Tank capacity 17 gallons: added 13.88 gallons a few months ago. Driven 325 miles until crank no start. Gasoline in tank more than 1/4 left. Bad Gasoline? Really! Will drain and replace. Thanks

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Thursday, November 17th, 2022 AT 5:32 PM

KEN L

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If it runs on starting fluid, and the injectors are spraying there is nothing left it can be.

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Friday, November 18th, 2022 AT 1:30 PM

KEIHINCARB

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Evening. Update:
Opened tank / bolt-drained 6 gallons. Refilled with 2 gallons 87 octane and 1
gallon 89 octane. After starting/ cranking to get rid of existing "bad" fuel-in lines,
engine ran for a second (to 2000 rpm's) then stalls/ dies. Repeat same, then
each start / progressively worst. Took out spark plugs (fouled / black), one spark
plug resistance is (4.4K ohms), the rest at 3.2K ohms. Will go back to carburetor
fluid test / run-idle and fuel injection test / spray etc. To be sure. Check fuel off list.
Suggestions? Thanks.

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Sunday, November 20th, 2022 AT 6:15 PM

KEN L

MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
47,690 POSTS

You could have a clogged exhaust system or catalytic converter. I would install new spark plugs and disconnect the head pipe from the cat to see if you have the engine power back.

Here is a guide to help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

Please go over this guide and report back.

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Monday, November 21st, 2022 AT 10:25 AM

KEIHINCARB

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So that's what it sounds like without a cat / exhaust system. Couldn't hear engine turn over, but noticed the rpm gauge / needle move. Same condition. Not a clogged cat / exhaust system. Any other suggestions? If not, going back to the beginning and start to install (tune-up) items (plugs / wires etc. (OEM part ie denso / Nkg etc.) Happy
Thanksgiving. Thanks.

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Tuesday, November 22nd, 2022 AT 8:54 PM

KEN L

MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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Can you remove the oil fill cap to see if the camshaft is turning when you crank the engine over? You may have a bad timing belt.

Happy Thanksgiving to you as well :)

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Wednesday, November 23rd, 2022 AT 12:23 PM

KEIHINCARB

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Each day after I try to solve this crank / no start condition I typically set the engine to TDC. Distributor pointing to #1 (cap), manual transmission flywheel pointer to white + mark, physically moving / rotating the crankshaft bolt (3/4") CCW. Decided to remove the spark plugs and measure the depth of the piston in each cylinder from top of valve cover.#1 and #4 at 11", #2 and #3 at 7". Last I looked timing belt was fine (month ago) when I removed valve cover to check camshaft (up arrow ) and marks on camshaft against surface/head for proper timing. Still puzzled, sometimes engine rpm is normal going to 2000 rpm's (cold start) then one would hope it idles, but dies, and other times crank starts rpm's are so low, engine chugs then dies. Inconsistent. Still hoping to find the problem with your help. Ask me to check on something, more than likely I've already done it. But ask away.I've done a lot of individual testing of components with (dvm, resistance tests and voltage tests /main relay/ignition switch/ tp /distributor ckp/tdc/cyl/external coil/ new fuel filter/ tested /replaced fuel pump(denso w/airtex) / cleaned throttle body/ IACV/ EGR / etc. Etc.).I'm going to see if it'll still run on Carb cleaner (5-10 seconds/ again) and I'll remove the fuel rail w/injectors to see if I still get spray (against paper/again.) Suggestions welcome. Thanks

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Wednesday, November 23rd, 2022 AT 1:57 PM

KEN L