Shut off while driving, engine cranks but no fire?

Hello, sorry to hear about your issue here. But with no check engine light, that is a sign the engine computer is not being powered up, have you checked all the grounds on the vehicle, even the frame to body grounds and engine block grounds, since the ECM will usually be grounded to the block. I'll pull the wiring diagrams for the ECM power and the ground diagrams for you, you could probably put the old computer back on until we find a reason it's not powering up. It's good to have the original computer on the vehicle if it hasn't actually failed.

And do you have power to all the fuses in the engine compartment fuse box? Id would check them with a test light and a multimeter to make sure there is full battery power to each fuse since they all have a direct connection to the battery in that fuse box. I'm getting the wiring diagrams for the PCM together for you, powers and grounds. The grounds for the PCM do go to the engine block, so does Battery Negative, the PCM has at least 4 or 5 grounds I see so far, they look like they're all black wires with a White stripe. G123 is Ground at the Rear of Engine Compartment, which is also where the Battery Negative wire goes.

Here are some guides to help. I will post the diagrams next.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Sorry for the delay, some of the aftermarket diagrams were incorrect, so these are the OEM Ford diagrams. Diagram 1, 2 are the PCM ground locations.
Diagrams 3,4,5 are for the PCM Connector so you can check for power and ground right at the connector, hope fully it's not too confusing, you just need to concentrate on the 6 Grounds and the 3 Power feeds to the PCM. D
Diagram 6 is for the PCM power relay, if you take the relay out of its location, out of the 4 pins where the relay sits, 2 pins should have power at all times, and 1 pin should go directly to ground. So, if you use a multimeter to check for power here, just touch the pins lightly without pushing the meter leads into the pins, that will spread the pins and the relay will not make good contact afterwards.

Something else you should check is the 3 sensors in diagram 7, marked in Green on that sheet as well as the PCM connector sheet. Those 3 sensors use a 5volt Reference, and if one of those sensors shorts out and pulls the 5volts down to ground, it will disable to the PCM and can act the same as if the PCM was not powered up, So if you find power and ground where it should be at the PCM connector, unplug one of these three wire sensors and check for a 5volt feed on one of the wires, the throttle position sensor is the easiest to check, you're just looking for missing voltage here with the key On. If it's missing, unplug the next one. If the 5-volts is not missing when one specific 3 wire sensor is unplugged, check for a Check engine light, you may have to cycle the key.

The trick here is if one sensor is pulling the 5volts to ground, and you unplug it, the issue is no longer there, so not effecting the other two sensors at that point, but plugged back in and the issue is back, this is where you would have to back probe the connector with a pin and see if that specific sensor is bringing down that reference voltage.
It may sound confusing, but the idea is checking the sensor while plugged back in to see if the 5-volts is there or not.
A shorted sensor causing the computer to go down is common but can be difficult to find. Thankfully there are only 3 sensors on this truck that use that 5volt Ref.
The last diagram is the aftermarket PCM connector just in case. Sorry for the long post.

Thank you for helping me. I have checked fuses with a tester and multi meter. I have checked the power at the PCM plug and getting power to the plug. I'll check the grounds ASAP.
Does my truck have an ignition control module separate from the PCM or is it made into the PCM?

Oh and if I use my multimeter and test the PCM connector, at the main positive terminal, can I find out if it's a ground issue by voltage or continuity?

You want to check for voltage at the PCM connector on the 3 wires that I marked on Red, and the 6 Grounds marked in black. The Coil pack is controlled by the PCM, it has 4 wires to it, one wire is power, the other 3 wires are control for each coil. The coils are ground side switched, and one coil sends spark to 2 cylinders, it's known as a waste spark system. But with the key On, you should see the Check engine light come on for at least a few seconds. You can also look at your Tachometer, if you have lost a crank sensor signal, the tach won't move at all when cranking. But you should see a check engine light, that's why I mentioned checking the powers and grounds for the PCM. But remember if one of those 3 wire sensors shorts out, it will have the same effect. It can cause the PCM to go down.

Okay, I checked for power to the PCM, all red (positive) gets power.
I'll check the grounds tomorrow, and get back with you.

Please do, AL514 is one of our best!

Sorry the delay, working nights due to the heat down here. Be sure to check under the truck as well for any braided frame to body grounds, they can have high voltage drop across them, even if they look okay, run a large temporary ground and see if it starts.

I understand that, I have to do stuff early in the morning or at night.
I'll check the grounding points in the morning.
Thank you for your assistance.

okay, unplug the throttle position sensor and with the key On, see if you have 5-volts on one of its wires as well.

Sorry for getting back to you so late, had stuff come up lol.
I checked the grounds at the PCM connector, using a DMM set to resistance. 000 at every one.
The positive pins is getting 12.6 volts at them.
What should I check next?

Okay, I will usually load test the powers and grounds to make sure they can carry current, I'll use a turn signal bulb most of the time, they pull a few amps, but for now see if you have a 5volt reference on the throttle position sensor. Out of the 3 wires one will read 5volts with the key On. If the 5volts is missing, plug the TPS back in and recheck at the Differential Pressure Feedback (DPFE) Sensor on the EGR valve for a 5volt reference. Let's see if this is a sensor issue.
Another quick test to rule out any bad engine or body grounds is to run your own grounds for testing purposes, you can use some jumper cables, just connect to battery negative, to the engine block, and to the body/frame. That way you're grounding the entire vehicle, it's good to use jumper cables for this since they can carry high current loads. If you ground everything out, and it starts or at least the Check engine light comes back, you know your dealing with a bad ground.
you can even hook a test light to Battery negative and touch the block, a bad ground will light the test light, but try the jumper cable method since its quick.

I assume the check engine light would work prior to this issue? Its not burned out or anything I hope.

Yes the check engine light worked before it did this I'll check the other in the morning, check for the reference voltage at those sensors . And get back to you .

Sounds good.

Ok I used jumper cables to ground the engine to the battery negative,, then checked the throttle position sensor for the 5 volt reference only getting 1.2 volts on the brown / white stripe wire , , what next

I also noticed that my drivers window won't roll down . I don't know if that alhas anything to do with the problem or not

Are you still there ?
I found that fuse #20 in the interior fuse box is not getting any power at all. It is for the pcm/ gem . Correct ?

Is your battery in good shape, can you test the volts at the battery?

Yes , battery is in good shape ,, I even put a jumper pack on it and still no power at fuse # 20 , I'm kinda out of my wheel house here lol

In the interior fuse panel, every other fuse has power , 12 volts to it

Ok Fuse 20 5amp, did you try using jumper cables for temporary grounds? You dont need to hook them to battery positive, just use them as large jumper wires to ground the engine block and frame to battery negative.
It looks like Fuse 20- 5amp is "Hot in Start". It looks to send a start signal to the PCM through the Clutch Pedal Switch. You're still in a "Crank no start" condition correct? Have you done a test yet to see if youre missing ignition spark or fuel injector control?
Running the jumper cables to battery negative to the engine block is just a short cut test to potential Grounding issues, The reason Im stressing that test is because the PCM grounds to the engine block, and so does the battery, and ground straps are over looked in many cases. Just looking at them doesnt tell us how much resistance a braided frame to body strap.
You can (diagram 1) see that Fuse 20 wont have power until the clutch pedal is down and the key in the Start/Crank position. Make sure you dont have any broken or corroded wires down at the pedals as well.

yes I hooked jumper cables to the battery negative then to the engine block but didn't try to start it or check for spark , I'll do that tomorrow. .
My truck is an automatic,
Also my code reader says can not communicate when I hook it up.
The fuse is good and the check engine light don't flash or anything.
I used a volt meter to test voltage on all the fuses , all 12 volts in both fuse boxes.

I'm just asking this, it a shot in the dark lol . Could this have to do with the RAP ?
My truck is a '98 and it shouldn't have it but could it have been added if so where would it be ? And how can I check it or what

I test for spark on number 1 and number 3 cylinder ,, no spark ,, used number cables to ground the battery to block

The wiring diagrams do show an anti-theft module, are you seeing a constant or flashing security light? I would think you would still see the check engine light as well, But if you have a security light On, it will usually shut off a few seconds after the key goes to the On/Run position. Is that something youre noticing?

No I'm not seeing a flashing light , but I'm not seeing a check engine light either.
I was told that the gem module could cause this problem. But everything,, lights, whispers, ect,,, works . How would I check this

Oh and does the ignition switch under the dash have to be grounded to the steering column

The GEM module is basically a body control module, just called something else. Below are the listings on page one (diagram 1,2) and page two. Showing everything that has an input or output from the GEM.
I would check any connectors under the dash or connectors to the engine compartment fuse box. They're pretty easy to check.
Where else are you missing power?

In your opinion,, could the drivers window not rolling down at all ,, have something to do with this ?

Also if I take the fuse panel/ gem module out what should I look for in signs of damage,, besides burt wires of course.

Oh and I meant to ask ,, right before my truck died,,, I filled up with gas, could this be the pressure switch in the gas tank ?
I'm at the point that I'm grasping at straws lol.
And seeing that my truck is an automatic transmission, what does fuse # 20 do?

To your 1st question on the window, yes the GEM controls body functions. This is the 2nd diagram from above, you can see there are a 2 control modules here. Calling a failed module is difficult, but here I would go and check this connector for any corrosion, I can see why its not starting with that fuse blown.

This is the GEM (body control module) is located, with its 4 connectors. They are all labelled and you shouldnt have too much trouble locating it, look for broken or rubbed threw wires down where your feet are. Many times wires will just rub threw after 20 years and they short out. The GEM doesnt look to be in a good location when it comes to water.

Ok, well this is the messed up part !! The fuse is not blown or blow at anytime when I got it home after it died ,, .
What is your thoughts on removing the gem/ fuse unit and seeing for a bad wire or water damage .

so the fuse blew after when you were already testing?

No ,, the fuse never blew.
The truck just shut off like I turned off the ignition switch. It just died .
I went to make a right hand turn to pull on to the hwy and gave it gas and it died .

I thought fuse 20 didnt have any power? Or was that just a misunderstanding of when it should be powered up, I know that was a Start only fuse.
I would check for any broken or damaged wires down where the GEM is located. Its a place where we may not noticed water sometimes. Just take the key out before disconnecting components. Use a good flashlight and look into the females pins on the harness side of component connectors. Make sure there are no spread pins or green/white corrosion inside or on any pins. When checking for tight pins, I will use a size smaller than the component has, that way I can be sure they will remain tight when plugged back together. Wiring and connector problems can be very frustrating so go slowly and look for discolored or burnt plastic on any connectors as well.

Fuse 20 never blew,,, but I have not checked in with the key in the start position,
So it might be getting power.
I know that my code reader will not connect to the PCM at all .
And my sensors are only getting 1.2 volts on the reference wire .
I checked the grounds as you said, aka jumper cables,, but still have no spark at the coil pack .
I will check the body control module connectors and wiring . Tomorrow and get back to you.
Thank you for your patience and help