Crank but no start, no spark to plugs?

EMERY1413

MEMBER
1990 FORD E-SERIES VAN
5.8L
V8
2WD
AUTOMATIC
123,000 MILES

Running good quit, cranks good, no spark to plugs, has lights, horn, etc. Don't have smart phone only old laptop, did get some codes, from watching your other videos 24, 26, 21, 71, 19, 62, I'm alone, hotwired the test light to single connect, but have to turn switch myself to get codes under hood, I'm thinking these codes are correct, btw, thank you for your videos, they got me this far, btw green fuel relay on fire wall clicks, but don't hear no fuel pumps sound, fuel gauges both work with key on, the crash shut off with the red button, the button down, with key on the test light is dead, when I ground n test them one at a time, these 2 wires are at the bottom of the unit with the red button.

10 Replies

KEN L

MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
47,602 POSTS

The inertia switch should have power through it BTW. It is a simple two wire connection. Here are the codes, I would clear them and then try to start the van again, if all of these codes come back you have a bad PCM ground or the PCM itself is bad.

Code 24: Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor out of range.
Code 26: Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor or Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) signal out of range.
Code 21: Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor out of range.
Code 71: EGR feedback (EVP) signal out of range.
Code 19: Failure in the Electronic Control Assembly (ECA) or Electronic Control Unit (ECU).
Code 62: Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) solenoid circuit failure.

I have heard these vans have trouble with the ignition module TFI, (common) Here is the location so you can check it out. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.

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Thursday, October 17th, 2024 AT 5:13 PM

EMERY1413

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6 POSTS

Thank you, Ken, I have had the van for 20 years, I have maintained myself, hoses, belts, vacuum lines, gd brass, cooper radiator, water pump, thermostat, heater core, plugs, wires, ect. But im an old 60s car guy, The above things I know, computers, sensors, im kinda lost, but threw watching your videos, were going to give it a try, BTW, do I have to pull the dist. To replace the TFI? Thinking no, thanks again to all you guys

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Thursday, October 17th, 2024 AT 7:21 PM

EMERY1413

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6 POSTS

Pulled ground off battery took codes only 11 pops up, rolled it over, tried again ignition on, 11, you have to pull the distributor to get the TFI, one bolt hole up against thermostat housing. I'm thinking in going to order a new distributor doesn't hurt to have one around, bypassed the inertia switch. Thank you for your time, so far, anything else will be standing by.

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Friday, October 18th, 2024 AT 10:56 AM

KEN L

MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
47,602 POSTS

Yep, that should fix it, that way you get the pick up coil as well. Let us know how it goes

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Friday, October 18th, 2024 AT 11:18 AM

EMERY1413

MEMBER
6 POSTS

Check engine light goes off with ignition on, coil wire lights up test light at distributor I'm thinking 1990 ford 351 W, the distributor I need cast iron gear, the other thing been bothering me is I here no fuel pumps with the ignition on, fuel relay clicks, good sign it's alright, but not positive I here. BTW, I will make a donation when I get running, my vans a self-contained RV, but I'm stuck with van until running, don't live here, thank God, I have generator gas, and propane across the street. Thanks again