Code PO010 and PO300 says permanent random misfire

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The camshaft actuator open means there is no connection between the computer and the actuator. This actuator is controlled by the ECM. The ECM can change intake timing hydraulically via this actuator.

If you look at the last attached pic, it indicates how the system works and the components involved.

Now, if you feel it needs replaced, it is a big job. The timing chain will need removed. Here are the directions for removal and replacement. The attached pictures correlate with the directions.

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2011 Chevrolet Malibu L4-2.4L
Camshaft Position Intake Actuator Replacement

CAMSHAFT POSITION INTAKE ACTUATOR REPLACEMENT

Special Tools
* EN-45059 - Angle Meter
* EN-48749 - Timing Chain Retention Tool Kit
* EN-48953 - Camshaft Actuator Locking Tool

For equivalent regional tools, refer to Special Tools (See: Engine > Electrical / Mechanical Repair > Special Tools).

Removal Procedure

1. Remove the camshaft cover. Refer to Camshaft Cover Replacement (See: Valve Cover > Removal and Replacement > Camshaft Cover Replacement).
2. Remove the spark plugs. Refer to Spark Plug Replacement (See: Spark Plug > Removal and Replacement).

Pic 1

3. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise and install the EN-48953 - retention
tool (1).

Caution: Refer to Fastener Caution (See: Vehicle > Vehicle Damage Warnings > Fastener Caution).

4. Install the camshaft actuator retainer bolts and tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
5. Loosen, but DO NOT remove the intake camshaft actuator bolt.
6. Remove the EN-48953 - locking tool (1).
7. Clean the timing chain and gears with solvent.

Note: Ensure the timing chain and the camshaft position actuators are marked for proper assembly.

8. Mark the intake and exhaust camshaft actuators and the respective locations on the timing chain.

Pic 2

9. Remove the upper timing chain guide bolts and guide.

Pic 3

10. Remove the timing chain tensioner.

Pic 4

Note:
* The intake camshaft actuator should not rotate during the removal or installation.
* Ensure the tips of the tool are fully engaged into the timing chain. The retention tool rod can be used on the back side of the chain to ensure the teeth from the retention tool are engaged.

11. Install the EN-48749 - retention tool (1) to the intake side of the timing chain.

Pic 5

12. Install the EN-48749 - retention tool (1) to the exhaust side of the timing chain.

Pic 6

13. Remove and discard the intake camshaft actuator bolt (1).
14. Rotate the exhaust camshaft clockwise slightly to take the tension off of the timing chain on the intake actuator.
15. Remove the intake camshaft actuator (3) from the camshaft while also removing the actuator from the timing chain.

Installation Procedure

pic 7

Note: Ensure that the alignment mark made previously on the intake camshaft actuator is still aligned properly with the mark on the timing chain.

1. Install the timing chain onto the intake camshaft actuator.
2. Align the intake camshaft actuator alignment mark made previously with the timing chain mark and install the actuator onto the camshaft rotating the exhaust camshaft clockwise, if required.
3. Install a NEW intake camshaft actuator bolt (1) until snug.

Pic 8

4. Remove the timing chain retention tool (1) from the intake side of the timing chain.

Pic 9

Note: Ensure that the alignment mark previously on the intake camshaft actuator is still aligned properly with the timing chain. If the mark made previously on the intake camshaft actuator is not aligned properly, refer to Camshaft Timing Chain, Sprocket, and Tensioner Replacement (See: Timing Chain > Removal and Replacement > Camshaft Timing Chain, Sprocket, and Tensioner Replacement).

5. Remove the timing chain retention tool (1) from the exhaust side of the timing chain.

Note: Failure to reset the tensioner will allow the tensioner to over extend. Limiting the timing chain life.

6. Reset and install the timing chain tensioner. Refer to Timing Chain Tensioner Replacement (See: Timing Chain Tensioner > Removal and Replacement > Timing Chain Tensioner Replacement).

Pic 10

7. Install the EN-48953 - retention tool (1).
8. Install the camshaft actuator retainer bolts and tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
9. Tighten the NEW camshaft actuator bolt to 30 Nm (22 lb ft) plus an additional 100 degrees using the EN-45059 - meter.

Note: You must have the EN-48953 - retention tool installed to perform this procedure.

10. To release the tensioner apply a counterclockwise rotational torque to the crankshaft balancer bolt of 45 Nm (33 lb ft).
11. Remove the EN-48953 - retention tool (1).

Pic 11

12. Install the upper timing chain guide and bolts and tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
13. Install the spark plugs. Refer to Spark Plug Replacement (See: Spark Plug > Removal and Replacement).
14. Install the camshaft cover. Refer to Camshaft Cover Replacement (See: Valve Cover > Removal and Replacement > Camshaft Cover Replacement).

Let me know.

Joe

Welcome back:

Do you have a P0304? If not, what codes do you have? Also, are all of the plugs wet? Have you checked fuel pressure? If fuel pressure is good, you have spark to cylinder 4, and the timing is correct, then you need to confirm compression.

Let me know.

Have you checked fuel pressure? Have you checked the number 4 for spark even though it has a new coil? Also, have you pulled the injector to see if it is stuck open?

Other than that, compression in that cylinder can cause a misfire. Also, a faulty crankshaft position sensor can cause a misfire.

Let me know.
Joe

Welcome back:

The reason I mentioned fuel pressure is because the regulator may not be working and allowing too much pressure to reach the injectors. You got a tough one. I'm trying to think of things that could be an issue.

Here are links that explain how to check an injector, spark, and so on. And yes, I agree that the new coil should be fine. However, it could be bad or it may not be getting power.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Here are the manufacturer's specs for fuel pressure:

2011 Chevrolet Malibu V6-3.6L
Pressure, Vacuum and Temperature
Vehicle Powertrain Management Fuel Delivery and Air Induction Fuel Pump Fuel Pressure Specifications Pressure, Vacuum and Temperature
PRESSURE, VACUUM AND TEMPERATURE
Ignition ON, engine OFF .................... 386-427 kPa (56-62 psi)

Relieve the fuel pressure to 69 kPa (10 psi). Verify that the fuel pressure does not decrease more than 14 kPa (2 psi) in 5 minutes

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Welcome back:

That is correct. It doesn't have a traditional regulator. However, on this vehicle, the fuel pressure regulator is a part of the fuel tank module. Fuel demands still need to be regulated. The fuel pressure regulator, a part of the fuel tank module, maintains the correct fuel pressure to the fuel injection system.

I realize it isn't the traditional type, but I feel it is worth checking pressure.

Joe

Welcome back:

You first need to confirm that fuel pressure is within the manufacturer's specs. If it is, then the regulator is fine. If it is too high, then the module will need replaced.

As far as the regulators, I feel we need to do one thing at a time. I wouldn't want you to replace parts that are good.

Before I would pull the tank, I would check the injector and compression.

I thought it ran but had a number 4 misfire. I would start by checking pressure. Or, here is a link that explains how to test injectors. See if there is an injector pulse. You should see the test light flash on and off. If it stays on all the time, then we have a different issue related to the power control module.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

As you I'm sure are aware, it would be very unlikely that all injectors went bad at the same time.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Welcome back:

If they are all soaked, I'm surprised it's running. Honestly, I would start with fuel pressure. Something is allowing too much fuel to get to the plugs.

However, another thought just hit me. Do you have a live data scanner? I wonder if the engine coolant temperature sensor is bad. If it tells the computer it is -40°F, the computer will dump fuel to run the engine in extreme temps. It's only a theory at this time. If you do have a live data scanner, check the ECT signal to determine if it is sending an accurate signal to the computer.

Let me know.

Joe

It could. Take a look through this link. I hate to throw parts at things and be wrong. I'm sure you don't want to do that. Can you get your hands on a live data scanner?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor