Possibly battery/ignition/wires

Tiny
HRYNESKI
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 CHEVROLET COBALT
  • 2.2L
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
Sunday, I go to start the car and the car/lock anti theft symbol pops up, car makes clicking sound but will not start. We jump it, it runs just fine.

Monday, go to start the car, completely unresponsive. Jumped it and it runs just fine. We drive it to AutoZone to test the battery/alternator/starter, tests come out fine. Battery at 94% (only tested from battery in trunk).

Tuesday, go to start car and does same thing as Sunday. Taken into mechanic to get looked at and they test battery from engine and trunk. Engine reads 33% and trunk reads 77%. Car runs just fine after jump.

Wednesday, car turns on completely fine with out being ran since 6:00 pm the night before.

Help!
Wednesday, May 2nd, 2018 AT 12:57 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,874 POSTS
You are describing typical loose/corroded/dirty battery connections and cables. Any mechanic should be able to diagnose the location of the bad connection, but the job will go faster if you find a mechanic with plenty of experience working with electrical problems. They will know exactly where to start looking and the most effective tests to perform. In particular, "voltage drop" tests are the most informative, but for starter circuits these are easiest to do with a helper. The tests involve measuring the voltage across two points mechanically connected together while current is trying to flow through it. Ideally those voltages should be 0.0 volts. The higher the voltage you find at a connection, the worse that connection is, meaning the more it needs cleaning or tightening. For starter circuits, the most you're allowed is 0.2 volts across any one connection and 0.4 volts in the entire circuit.
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Wednesday, May 2nd, 2018 AT 4:29 PM
Tiny
HRYNESKI
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
So I had my car taken in and they did a brief check and said the alternator was fine, the starter was good and the battery read okay. Drove my car into work today and the battery was smoking and it smelt horrible. I know that is not a good sign. Any thoughts?
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Friday, May 4th, 2018 AT 10:13 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,874 POSTS
That is a sign the battery is being over-charged. Your voltage regulator is built into the generator and is extremely difficult to replace separately. Standard practice is to replace the entire generator assembly, but be aware there has been a lot of problems for GM owners. Without going into all the theory, it is critical that when you replace an 1987 or newer GM generator, you must replace the battery at the same time unless it is less than about two years old. That is even when it is not causing smoking or other symptoms. Failure to replace the battery is the cause of many people going through four to six replacement generators in the life of the vehicle. The high incidence of repeat failures is reduced by replacing the battery too.

It is also possible for a battery to develop a shorted cell on its own, and that can cause all of the symptoms you have been describing. In this case the place to start is with the new battery, then have the charging system tested. Insist on a printout of the test results or have them written on the invoice, and post them in your next reply. Specifically, I want to see "charging voltage", "full-load output current", and "ripple voltage". Some testers list ripple voltage as a number, but most just show it as "low" or "high". That is sufficient for our needs.
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Friday, May 4th, 2018 AT 8:23 PM

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