battery drain

2008 CHEVROLET COBALT
100,000 MILES • 2.4L • 4 CYL • AUTOMATIC
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BOSTONBOATSWAIN
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Battery light came on. Got new battery, seemed to work fine. Started up next morning & battery light back on. Car worked fine going to work (all dash lights bright). Headed home from work & dash lights dimmed somewhat & radio flicked off/on 2 times. Pulled in yard & lost all dash lights & radio. But the headlights were still on. Turned car off and on again with headlights on, got nothing. When I turned lights off I got clicks. Put old battery back in (it tested @ 6p%), everything worked fine. Headed to work today & battery light was back on & within 3 miles lost everything in dash, radio, power steering, headlights barely on & car tried to die. I managed to juice it (car seemed to be struggling) to get it back home where I turned it off then tried to turn back on & only got clicks. Any ideas? Thinking alternator? Maybe something loose (live on very bumpy road). Any help very appreciated
Mar 17, 2016 at 5:30 AM
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HMAC300
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check fusible link in pic then have it scanned it may be a body module problem. the link may only have 1 or2 strands holding it together
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Mar 17, 2016 at 6:24 AM
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BOSTONBOATSWAIN
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Turns out my serpentine belt gone. I got a new one but not sure how tight I need to make tension wheel down on belt. Do I push down as hard as I can the tighten bolt?
Mar 19, 2016 at 9:43 PM
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BOSTONBOATSWAIN
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Turns out my serpentine belt gone. I got a new one but not sure how tight I need to make tension wheel down on belt. Do I push down as hard as I can then tighten bolt?
Mar 19, 2016 at 9:44 PM
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HMAC300
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if you replaced the belt a new tensioner should be installed as well. see pic it is held by one bolt and arrow points to where you can install a rachet to move it to relieve tension then put on belt.
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Mar 19, 2016 at 11:56 PM
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BOSTONBOATSWAIN
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Neighbor helped me pull tensioner off. Could hear bearing move in pulley wheel. Changed it out & got low squeal. Sprayed belt dressing - no help. Then when can kicked on - loud squeal. Maybe The tensioner itself? Would that account for squeal?
Mar 20, 2016 at 8:51 PM
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HMAC300
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if you did not replace the tensioner you should have or do it now. the bearing is sealed so you can't lube it. also with serpentine belts nothing should ever be sprayed on it as it ruins it and shortens it life. do not attempt to clean it now either. replace the tensioner it will self adjust.
Mar 20, 2016 at 10:43 PM
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BOSTONBOATSWAIN
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Ok. Bought new tensioner. Neighbor is telling me I need to have somebody pushing down on the black wheel part of it while I tighten bolt to block. Doesn't seem right, if it's an auto tensioner shouldn't I just have to attach & the wheel automatically set itself?? Or am I just a complete idiot???
Mar 21, 2016 at 6:04 PM
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HMAC300
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if you look at my previous reply there is an arrow pointing to where you can put a rachet in it to push it down and then install belt and release it. Remove the rachet and start car up that is all there is to it. Just make sure belt is routed correctly which there should be belt routing either on car sticker underhood or on our site here. no need to have some help on this it's pretty easy
Mar 21, 2016 at 6:59 PM
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BOSTONBOATSWAIN
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Ok. New tensioner, new belt both on. No squeal (YEAH!!). But a very slight chittery/flappy sound. Need more tension on belt? Yes, belt in all grooves properly.
Mar 21, 2016 at 9:20 PM
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HMAC300
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couple of things here if previous belt was broken or destroyed look at all pulleys and clean any stuff of them do no use oil or chemicals. then reinstall and run for a few minutes and see if noise goes away. automatic tensioners are set to proper tension for belt but the belt may need to wear in a tad.
Mar 21, 2016 at 10:38 PM
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BOSTONBOATSWAIN
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YIPPEEEEEE!!! I am one happy old broad. NO NOISE!!!!! Can't thank you enough for all your advice. Sure do miss the Michigan mechanics in times like these, but feels good to crank on it myself even when I gotta hit the sites for advice. THANKS S AGAIN!!!!
Mar 21, 2016 at 11:49 PM