Clutch pedal not working properly and no start

EVEEPEE

MEMBER
1998 HONDA CRV
2.0L
4 CYL
4WD
MANUAL
175,000 MILES

Hello,

I recently changed the clutch and flywheel in my vehicle and upon reinstallation, I purchased a new battery to be safe. I noticed at first that the clutch pedal "pops" down to the floor board with absolutely no pressure, and in order to get it up, I have to apply light pressure from the back to "pop" it back up towards the driver.
So, with the clutch pedal (with no pressure) depressed, the car cranks and cranks, but will not fire up. Starter is ok, new battery, alternator is fine and everything power wise worked great before the install.

I probably need to bleed the slave and master cylinders, but with absolutely no pedal pressure, the system won't seem to pressurize after pumping and pumping. Would this be a reason it wouldn't start?

3 Replies

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,758 POSTS

Hi,

The pedal going to the floor isn't the cause of the no start.

First, here are directions for bleeding the slave/clutch master cylinder: See pic 1

Bleed the clutch hydraulic system.
- Attach a hose to the bleeder screw, and suspend the hose in a container of brake fluid.
- Make sure there is an adequate supply of fluid at the clutch master cylinder, then slowly pump the clutch pedal until no more bubbles appear at the bleeder hose.
- Refill the clutch master cylinder with fluid when done.
- Always use Genuine Honda DOT3 Brake Fluid. Using a non-Honda brake fluid can cause corrosion and decrease the life of the system.
- Confirm clutch operation, and check for leaking fluid.

_________________________________

Next, if it isn't starting, first we need to check of there is spark and fuel to the engine. Take a look through the first link. It discusses the most common causes of a crank no start condition. The next two explain how to check fuel pressure and for ignition spark.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

___________________________________

The easiest and fastest way to check for spark is to see if the engine starts for a couple seconds using starting fluid. If it does and then stalls, we know it is a fuel related issue. If it doesn't even try to start, then it's likely ignition spark related.

Try these things and let me know the results.

Take care,
Joe

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Sunday, September 27th, 2020 AT 5:48 PM

EVEEPEE

MEMBER
2 POSTS

Very much appreciate the response, and I came to the same conclusion a after a bit of research. I was a bit beside myself stressing over a lot of things at the moment and didn't clearly review the steps. I found a "gravity bleed" method for the master/slave cylinder that I'll try, if not I will use the bottle method.

As for start, these b series engines, pre 2001 have a tendency for the coil pack in the distributor to go out pretty randomly. At first I thought I may have missed a ground or a connection, but after thoroughly combing through everything, and more research, I think I'll start with your fuel/spark test method. I learned that spark can still be there if the coil pack is out, but it will be a full yellow color instead of a bright blue.

Again, your response is immensely appreciated and I'll update you once I've troubleshot everything and she's back on the road.

Thanks again,

Evee

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Sunday, September 27th, 2020 AT 10:09 PM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,758 POSTS

Hi,

You are very welcome. Yes, a weak coil can still create a spark, but as you mentioned, it is usually white, orange or even a yellowish. You what a hot blue snapping spark.

Let me know if I can help.

Joe

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Monday, September 28th, 2020 AT 6:11 PM