Many times I get stuck in gear

Tiny
DARG49
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 329,000 MILES
Many times I get stuck in gear, pretty much always have to pump the clutch pedal a couple of times and then it goes back to working normal for a little bit. What else might that be other than the clutch master cylinder. The clutch was just replaced and both slave cylinders were replaced before the clutch. The problem did start before I had the clutch replaced. Have not noticed any leaks, but have not looked closely yet. Clutch fluid was low last time I checked it and did fill it back up. Just want to know if anything else would cause it to get stuck in a gear, usually a low gear, don't believe that has ever happened in third, fourth, or fifth gear. Thanks
Monday, March 9th, 2020 AT 7:29 PM

14 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,724 POSTS
Hi,

If you are low on fluid, that will most likely make this easier. First, check where the master cylinder is mounted on the fire wall (under the hood). Check for leaks. Do the same on the transmission where the slave cylinder is located. Since it was low on fluid, chances are you will see the leak.

Now, based on your description, I have a feeling it is the clutch master cylinder. However, there is only one way to be sure and that is by checking.

If you determine which one is leaking, here are the directions for replacement. First is the slave cylinder. The attached pics correlate with the directions.

____________________________-

1999 Toyota Corolla CE Sedan L4-1.8L (1ZZ-FE)
Procedures
Vehicle Transmission and Drive-train Clutch Clutch Hydraulic System Clutch Slave Cylinder Service and Repair Procedures
PROCEDURES

pic 1

REMOVAL

pic 2

1. DISCONNECT CLUTCH LINE
a. Using SST, disconnect the clutch line.
SST 09023-00100
b. Use a container to catch the fluid.
2. REMOVE 2 BOLTS AND PULL OUT RELEASE CYLINDER

DISASSEMBLY
1. REMOVE BLEEDER PLUG
2. REMOVE UNION BOLT, 2 GASKETS AND UNION
3. PULL OUT BOOT WITH PUSH ROD

pic 3

4. REMOVE PISTON
Using compressed air, remove the piston and the spring from the cylinder.

REASSEMBLY

pic 4

1. COAT PISTON WITH LITHIUM SOAP BASE GLYCOL GREASE, AS SHOWN
2. INSTALL PISTON WITH SPRING INTO CYLINDER
3. INSTALL BOOT WITH PUSH ROD TO CYLINDER
4. INSTALL UNION 2 GASKETS AND UNION BOLT
Torque: 24.5 Nm (250 kgf-cm, 18 ft. Lbs.)
5. INSTALL BLEEDER PLUG
Torque: 8.4 Nm (85 kgf-cm, 74 inch lbs.)

INSTALLATION
1. INSTALL RELEASE CYLINDER AND 2 BOLTS
Torque: 12 Nm (120 kgf-cm, 9 ft. Lbs.)

pic 5

2. CONNECT CLUTCH LINE
Using SST, connect the clutch line.
SST 09023-00100
Torque: 15 Nm (155 kgf-cm, 11 ft. Lbs.)
3. FILL CLUTCH RESERVOIR WITH BRAKE FLUID AND BLEED CLUTCH SYSTEM
4. CHECK FOR LEAKS

___________________________________

Here are the directions for the clutch master cylinder. When checking for leaks, also check under the dash where the clutch pedal attaches to the push rod.

___________________________________

1999 Toyota Corolla CE Sedan L4-1.8L (1ZZ-FE)
Procedures
Vehicle Transmission and Drivetrain Clutch Clutch Hydraulic System Clutch Master Cylinder Service and Repair Procedures
PROCEDURES

pic 5

REMOVAL
1. REMOVE BRAKE BOOSTER
2. DRAW OUT FLUID WITH SYRINGE

pic 6

3. DISCONNECT CLUTCH LINE
a. Using SST, disconnect the clutch line.
SST 09023-00100
b. Use a container to catch the fluid.
4. REMOVE LOWER FINISH PANEL AND LOWER INSERT
5. REMOVE NO. 2 HEATER TO REGISTER DUCT
6. REMOVE CLIP AND PIN
7. REMOVE 2 MOUNTING NUTS AND PULL OUT MASTER CYLINDER
8. REMOVE GASKET FROM MASTER CYLINDER

DISASSEMBLY
1. REMOVE CLEVIS AND BOOT
a. Loosen the lock nut to remove the clevis and remove the lock nut.
B. Remove the boot.

Pic 7

2. REMOVE RESERVOIR TANK
a. Using a pin punch and hammer, drive out the slotted spring pin.
B. Remove the reservoir tank and grommet.

Pic 8

3. REMOVE PUSH ROD
a. While pushing the push rod, using snap ring pliers remove the snap ring.
B. Remove the push rod and washer.
4. REMOVE PISTON

REASSEMBLY

pic 9

1. COAT PARTS WITH LITHIUM SOAP BASE GLYCOL GREASE, AS SHOWN
2. INSERT PISTON INTO CYLINDER

pic 10

3. INSTALL PUSH ROD ASSEMBLY WITH NEW GASKET AND NEW WASHER
a. Install the washer to the push rod
b. Push the push rod to the piston, using snap ring pliers, install the snap ring.
C. Install the boot.
4. INSTALL RESERVOIR TANK
a. Install the reservoir tank and a new grommet.
B. Using a pin punch and hammer, drive in the slotted spring pin.

INSTALLATION
1. INSTALL NEW GASKET TO MASTER CYLINDER
2. INSTALL MASTER CYLINDER AND 2 MOUNTING NUTS
Torque: 12 Nm (120 kgf-cm, 9 ft. Lbs.)
3. INSTALL PIN AND CLIP
4. INSTALL NO. 2 NEATER TO REGISTER DUCT
5. INSTALL LOWER INSERT AND LOWER FINISH PANEL

pic 11

6. CONNECT CLUTCH LINE
Using SST, connect the clutch line.
SST 09023-00100
Torque: 15 Nm (155 kgf-cm, 11 ft. Lbs.)
7. FILL CLUTCH RESERVOIR WITH BRAKE FLUID AND BLEED CLUTCH SYSTEM
8. INSTALL BRAKE BOOSTER
9. ADJUST CLUTCH PEDAL. Refer to Clutch Pedal Assembly; Service and Repair.
10. CHECK FOR LEAKS
_______________________________
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Monday, March 9th, 2020 AT 8:19 PM
Tiny
DARG49
  • MEMBER
  • 44 POSTS
Thank you for the advice, details and pictures. I believe first thing I need to do is find where it is leaking, I have been looking under the dash and around the clutch master cylinder and not finding where it is leaking. Really want to make sure I am replacing the right thing and don't still have the same problem after replacing the master cylinder.
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Tuesday, March 10th, 2020 AT 2:43 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,724 POSTS
Hi,

I totally agree. Since the fluid level was low, you should be able to locate the problem. Let me know if I can help or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Tuesday, March 10th, 2020 AT 8:42 PM
Tiny
DARG49
  • MEMBER
  • 44 POSTS
Is there anything else that could be causing the problem of getting stuck in gear to where I then have to either double pump the clutch pedal, shut off the engine or give it a good amount of extra effort to get it out of gear before running into something? Thanks for your help.
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Wednesday, March 11th, 2020 AT 8:01 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,724 POSTS
It has something to do with the hydraulics. I suspect it is the master cylinder, but check for leaks. Please feel free to let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Joe
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Wednesday, March 11th, 2020 AT 6:50 PM
Tiny
DARG49
  • MEMBER
  • 44 POSTS
I can't find a leak. Is it possible there is just air in the system?
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Tuesday, March 24th, 2020 AT 9:33 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,724 POSTS
Air in the system could cause this, but the only way it would have gotten into it was if the system was opened.
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Tuesday, March 24th, 2020 AT 10:25 AM
Tiny
DARG49
  • MEMBER
  • 44 POSTS
Hi, I finally went out and bled the slave cylinder, easiest bleed screw to get to. Test drove it, and I think that was all that it needed. Sorry for taking so long to finally do something. Thanks again.
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Tuesday, March 31st, 2020 AT 2:01 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,724 POSTS
You are very welcome and no problem at all as far as time. With everything happening in the world now, I'm just glad to hear you had a chance to get it fixed. Please feel free to come back in the future if you have questions or need help with anything.

Take care,
Joe
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Tuesday, March 31st, 2020 AT 5:43 PM
Tiny
DARG49
  • MEMBER
  • 44 POSTS
Hi,

I just bled the clutch system again, thought I had done a better job than last time, but a few minutes later it was stuck in reverse and I turned off the engine. I only get stuck in gear in reverse or 1st gear, sometimes I have to double pump the clutch or turn off the engine. I have yet to see any leaks in the clutch master cylinder and my clutch fluid isn't moving, I'm not driving as much but it is still full every time I look at it. Is there anything else that could be causing this or is there something I am just missing? Is there just one bleed screw or is there a second one somewhere? I am using the one that is at the front of the engine behind the radiator. This was happening before I had the clutch replaced and is still happening. Have plenty of time to work on it, just can't figure out exactly what I need to be working on and would really like it to work properly again. Thanks
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Friday, April 24th, 2020 AT 10:17 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,724 POSTS
In all honesty, I suspect the clutch master cylinder is bad. I have a feeling it is allowing fluid to bypass the plunger at times and causing the problem. I realize the master cylinder was replaced, but the problem existed prior to the new clutch as well. If the master cylinder is allowing fluid to bypass, the fluid will likely not get lower.

When a slave goes bad, most times (not always) it will leak.

Joe
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Friday, April 24th, 2020 AT 6:41 PM
Tiny
DARG49
  • MEMBER
  • 44 POSTS
Okay, just to clarify, the slave cylinders were replaced first, then it did pretty good for a good while, not long after that I thought the clutch was starting to slip, but it kept doing well enough for a good while, then it started getting stuck in gear too. I then thought I should just go ahead and get the clutch replaced so I would stop stressing about it. The master cylinder was never replaced. It does sound like you believe it is possible for the master cylinder to not leak and still cause me to get stuck in gear, so I will now attempt to do the master cylinder, bleed the system again, and hope that is the end of this issue. Thanks again!
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Saturday, April 25th, 2020 AT 7:14 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

That is correct. There is a plunger in the master cylinder that when worn, can allow fluid to bypass. Let me know if that takes care of the problem.

Take care,
Joe
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Saturday, April 25th, 2020 AT 11:18 PM
Tiny
DARG49
  • MEMBER
  • 44 POSTS
Yep, it was the clutch master cylinder. I replaced it this evening and I think it is all back to normal, or at least I sure hope so. Thanks for all your help!
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Wednesday, April 29th, 2020 AT 8:43 PM

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