Wheel Drive Shaft Nut. 140 Nm (103 ft. Lbs.)
Wheel Hub and Bearing Mounting Bolts 77 ft. Lbs.
Wheel Hub Bolt 95 ft. Lbs.
Wheel Speed Sensor to the Wheel Hub and Bearing Mounting Bolt 13 ft. Lbs.
These are the torque specs I found. There were no drawings to go with them. The axle nut torque seems very low to me, but I ran into something similar a few weeks ago. If you do replace a bearing assembly, go by the torque spec on the sheet of instructions that come with it. I'm used to seeing 180 foot pounds most often, and as high as 240 foot pounds on some GM trucks.
It sounds to me like you have a sloppy tie rod end. If you get any movement in the wheel bearing by shaking the tire at the top and bottom, you've had a worn bearing that was making a buzzing noise for a long time. If it really was that worn, you'd see the half inch movement regardless where you grabbed the tire.
For checking play in a wheel bearing or tie rod end, it doesn't matter how the vehicle is raised and supported, but for ball joints, you have to look at how they are "unloaded", then support the lower control arm or the frame on the jack stand. Most commonly if you put the jack stand under the frame and let the suspension hang, it will be the upper ball joint that is under tension and holding everything up. Even one with the most wear possible will appear to be tight that way. On most trucks the spring is pushing down on the lower ball joint, and that pressure prevents any objectionable movement from showing up. You have to move the jack stand to under the lower control arm. That removes the pressure on the two ball joints so any movement will show up when you pry the tire up and down with a lever.
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Tuesday, April 6th, 2021 AT 6:14 PM