My climate control stopped working?

First suspect is a defective control module. Second suspect is a blown fuse.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

I don't know what a "BJB" is, but most mechanics have a different approach. We don't have our customers' time to waste by paging through service manuals to figure which fuse to test. Also, on most newer cars there are a real lot of fuses that are labeled as being for a computer, but with no specificity of which circuit is involved. Often that's because one fuse can be involved in numerous different circuits or functions. Instead, we just grab a test light and look at the voltages on each fuse. All of the smaller spade-type fuses have two tiny holes on top for test points. Turn on the ignition switch and turn on any systems you can that are related to the problem, then check for those two voltages on each fuse.

If you find 12 volts on both test points, that fuse is good. If you find 0 volts on both test points, that circuit is turned off, so that fuse isn't related to the problem. You're looking for a fuse that has 12 volts on one side and 0 volts on the other side. That one is blown. You can test all the fuses in a few minutes this way.

Larger cartridge fuses are checked visually but they can be hard to tell sometimes. Those large fuses protect numerous circuits which are each further protected by their own smaller fuses, so if one of those is blown, you'll have a number of dead systems.

The next step is to check the power supplies and grounds at the controller's connector. Best is to use a test light. If you use a digital voltmeter, the module should be connected to get more accurate readings.

Terminal 2 is a purple wire and must have 12 volts all the time.
Terminal 16 is a purple / orange wire and must have 12 volts when the ignition switch is on.

To check the ground wire, move the test light's ground clip to a positive source. The easiest to find is the battery's positive cable. Now, the test light will light up when you probe a good ground.

Terminal 3 is a black wire. That is the only ground wire. The test light must light up brightly when this wire is probed and its ground clip is on the battery's positive cable.

If these three wires are okay, that leaves the two data buss wires, and you need a scanner to see if they are related to the problem. You'd have more problems than just the HVAC Controller if the data buss had a problem, but with the scanner, you can see if the HVAC Controller is communicating with the other computers.

HI Joyce

I don't mean to but in here but I founds these wiring diagrams for you so you can see each of the fuses and controllers in the system. Check fuse 19, 6 and 2

Please let us know what you find so it will help others.

Best, Ken

Hey,

Did you ever get the problem fixed?

Best, Ken

There are a couple fuses that supply power to the EATC. One is fuse 6, the other is fuse 19.
Does it light up at all or is it dead? If dead I would check those fuses and check the grounds as well. The POP sound may have been a bad short in the wiring and now you need to find that or it may have been a voltage spike or similar that damaged it. Hard to tell.

To do some testing you will want a simple test light or a VOM to check the various pieces. a test light is also great to test the fuses.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter