Vehicle just stopped when attempting to accelerate and will not Move

BALLARD62

MEMBER
1981 JEEP CJ5
4.2L
6 CYL
4WD
MANUAL
100,000 MILES

My wife was driving our vehicle listed above and she took off from a stop sign and the vehicle started to move then stopped in the middle of the road. It was still running fine but wouldn't budge. A kind older gentleman helped her push it into the nearest parking lot, after watching her put it in gear and seeing the rear drive shaft spin and the vehicle not move he told her the rear end was out. They locked it in 4wd and she drove it the mile to our house. When I had time I jacked it up and took the cover off the rear end to inspect the gears. Other than needing the gear oil changed everything looked fine, no broken teeth or metal shavings. So I took both rear wheels off. While on jack stands I had my wife get in the jeep and crank it up and put it in gear. As she eased off the clutch both rear axles turned and the gears in the reared seemed to turn fine. She shut it off and I spun the driver side axle and the gears in the rear end did not move nor did the passenger side axle. If she spun the passenger axle the driver side would spin (i believe in the opposite direction) I like to try and figure things out myself but I'm working a lot of hours right now and my wife and son would really enjoy being able to ride the vehicle. Looking for any suggestions. I'm no mechanic but I am not afraid to give anything a try with enough instructions.

Tuesday, April 21st, 2020 AT 6:39 PM

10 Replies

CJ MEDEVAC

MECHANIC
11,005 POSTS

In the end,

I recommend installing one piece axles.

I've had to help/ do this on lots of CJs.

Want to see what is wrong?

Let's pull both rear wheels

Remove the caps out of the wheels that "pertify" the axle ends.

Now remove/ pry off the covers that cover the axle ends.

Reinstall the wheels.

You should be able to see a big nut on the axle ends on both sides.

Fire it up, ease out on the clutch.

Lets have an observer look at both axle ends (one at a time)

One of those big nuts will probably spin and the hub will sit still.

This is one of the big crappy engineering issues with a CJ.

2 piece axles, they are not reliable, even replacing the "Spun" axle and hub with new ones probably will let you down later.

It's great that 4x4 will get you in when this happens.

Let me know if I'm dead on with the nut spinning!

The Medic

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Tuesday, April 21st, 2020 AT 8:01 PM

BALLARD62

MEMBER
5 POSTS

Thanks for the quick reply. After I posted this I did some more reading and had kind of came to the same conclusion. I am sure you are correct, where is the best place to get a once piece axle? It will most likely be a few days before I get a chance to look at it but when I do I will let you know.

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Wednesday, April 22nd, 2020 AT 6:01 AM

CJ MEDEVAC

MECHANIC
11,005 POSTS

This improvement is one of the best things you can do for your Jeep, one less item that might leave you stranded. Personally, I have had 6 CJ-5s. I stripped an axle in the 1st five.

Being gun-shy, when I got my last (present) '77 CJ-5 in 1991, I went ahead and ordered a set of axles, they are still under the bed in the guest room.

I have never changed my rear wheel bearings, previous owner?(like some kind of miracle happening). I feel that coming on really soon, I will be installing my 1 piece axles at that time.

This is what I found while searching for decent pocketbook friendly axles.

They normally are sold in pairs.

https://www.morris4x4center.com/omix-amc-20-rear-axle-kit-16530-20.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw1v_0BRAkEiwALFkj5tOBq_8E7kUsdzrYYVYNMB1IsVFmHWhKYdwWg6kPaD91SwVq31MSCBoCl5gQAvD_BwE

(I screenshot it below)

If you didn't already know, one axle is longer than the other.

The width of the axle housing was narrower 1976-1981(yours),

AMC widened the stance from 1982-1986 (not yours)

Unfortunately within all of 2car's videos and literature there is nothing dealing with this upgrading of axles.

Fear not!

You still came to the right place, we're just going to reach out on the web and get what we need!

Here's two:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kO0MwiiHAMA

and another

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rmKC7FRf7-E

You might do a You Tube search on installing CJ 1 pc. axles, I always like to review a bunch of videos before I tackle something, some are a lot better than others, some have better hints and tips, some should just be destroyed!

Return with good news!

The Medic

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Wednesday, April 22nd, 2020 AT 7:08 PM

BALLARD62

MEMBER
5 POSTS

Thanks for the help. You were correct. After I took the cap off I could freely spin the axle on the driver side while the hub did not move. I had no problem getting the axle on the driver side out (the "spun" axle) but the passenger side is being a little difficult. I'm looking at forums trying to find the best way to pull an axle. Any suggestion? I orders a set of 1 piece axles and they should be here next week.

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Saturday, April 25th, 2020 AT 4:39 PM

CJ MEDEVAC

MECHANIC
11,005 POSTS

Here's a link showing the tool:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F651xb2FAD0

This one actually shows it in use!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zrcm7MsQiXQ

This tool uses the lug nuts to anchor it onto the studs.

Forget trying a different kind of puller, like a 3 jaw that grabs the edges.

You will break it --- or it will break you!

Beating the center of the axle will get you nowhere and maybe mess up your differential.

It's called a hub puller!

Some auto stores rent them, call and explain what you need (it kind of looks like a doughnut holding the arms and a hammerhead shark where you hammer the spindle around)

I have seen them from $50.00 on up online.

No, Harbor Freight does not show one.

It seems funny that, that axle nut tightening down and squeezing the hub down, cutting it's own new splines into the hub could seem almost impossible to separate both pieces.

It is a pain!

Stay out from in front of the hub, stay to the side!

When that puppy turns loose, most likely you will need to change your britches!

Not preferred at all, I have attacked one with a big side grinder.

Keep us posted on progress.

The Medic

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Saturday, April 25th, 2020 AT 5:57 PM

CJ MEDEVAC

MECHANIC
11,005 POSTS

Just ran across this.

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/3-Jaws-Universal-Wheel-Hub-Puller_60776705991.html

The Medic

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Saturday, April 25th, 2020 AT 6:01 PM

BALLARD62

MEMBER
5 POSTS

Man I cannot thank you enough for the help! I probably would have figured all this out but you have saved me a ton of time and money trouble shooting. Part of the reason I bought this vehicle is to give me something to mess around with when it breaks, so this is half the fun.

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Saturday, April 25th, 2020 AT 6:11 PM

CJ MEDEVAC

MECHANIC
11,005 POSTS

Breakage is never fun!

Lots of the time, fundage gets mixed up in there too.

It's always been a learning experience for me.

I hate pulling it out of you,

But,

You got the Jeep 'cause you have been hooked for years, you just finally gave in.

I usually cry a little when one of mine is sick, but only when I'm alone and nobody is looking.

The Medic

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Saturday, April 25th, 2020 AT 6:30 PM

BALLARD62

MEMBER
5 POSTS

I’ve been working long hours the past couple of week and have had minimal time to mess with the axles. I’ve got all the old seals and everything out of the axle tubes and have one new seal installed on the passenger side. I have the spacer started in the tube, it’s pretty snug, do I drive it in all the way to the inner seal or does it seat in one of the grooves that are in the axle tube? I’ve got a bad habit of forcing things sometimes and making small problems big ones!

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Sunday, May 3rd, 2020 AT 2:34 PM

CJ MEDEVAC

MECHANIC
11,005 POSTS

I don't mean to be a pain or mean or non-sympathetic!

No beaty stuff in!

Listen to the feller! Lubricated and rotates! (not crammed in!)

Review this again! I really thought he was thorough and explained it better than I ever could!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rmKC7FRf7-E

He's grinding a little off of the spacer to get the final depth correct.

In the end, with the bearing stuck in as a test, your bearing will protrude about .030"

I know this may be virgin ground for you!

I'm here, you are there, do you have any machine shop/ manufacturing oriented buddies that might could aid you?

Just for giggles and info,

The reason the "test" with the bearing temporarily stuck in place and protruding "too far out" the width of the feeler gauge.

Is for setting "preload" (done for tapered bearings)!

Once the whole deal is finally bolted together, the bearing will be pushed into it's race properly (preload).

Too much will burn up/ damage the bearing, too little will make the bearing run untrue also damage it. The race, in both situations may get damaged too.

The Medic

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Sunday, May 3rd, 2020 AT 3:31 PM