Coolant leak?

Pressure check coolant system to find leak it may be head gasket or a bad radiator as well.

This guide will help us

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-is-leaking-coolant

Please run down this guide and report back.

That is where the water pump is located. Under the pump (behind the pulley) there is a weep hole. It is a small round hole. If the bearing is going bad in the pump, that is where it will leak from. Also, you can get a cooling system tester which is nothing more than a pump. It pressurizes the cooling system so it is easier to find leaks. Most parts stores will lend that to you.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Hi:

If you don't see water now, maybe it was just the AC condensation. Usually, when a pump leaks, it doesn't stop.

As far as the price, that seems really high, but I don't know where you live. I would recommend that you make sure the coolant is actually leaking before spending that much money.

If you see a leak again, rub your finger in it and then rub that into another finger. If it is only water, it will dry quickly. If it is coolant, it will be slippery and not evaporate.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

WATER PUMP

REMOVAL- 2.7L

NOTE: It is normal for the water pump to weep a small amount of coolant from the primary weep hole (black stain at weep passage). Do not replace the water pump if this condition exists. Replace the water pump if a heavy deposit or a steady flow of engine coolant is evident from the primary weep passage (Fig. 39) and (Fig. 40). This indicates a shaft seal failure and pump must be replaced. Coolant may leak from the secondary weep passage and fill the valley of the engine (Fig. 39) and (Fig. 41). If this condition is found, clean the primary weep passage of debris. Be sure to perform a thorough analysis before replacing water pump.

WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE PRESSURE CAP WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND PRESSURIZED. SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN RESULT.

1.Disconnect negative battery cable.
2.Drain cooling system.

NOTE: The water pump is driven by the primary timing chain.

3.Remove the timing chain cover, timing chain, and all chain guides.

4.Remove bolts attaching water pump to block (Fig. 38).
5.Remove water pump and gasket.

CLEANING
Clean gasket mating surfaces as necessary.

INSPECTION - 2.7L
Inspect and replace the water pump if it has any of the following defects:

1.Damage or cracks on the pump body.
2.Coolant leaks: If the shaft seal is leaking, this will be evident by traces of thick deposits of dried glycol running down from the pump primary weep passage (Fig. 39) and (Fig. 40). A thin black stain below the pump primary weep hole/passage is considered normal operation.
3.Coolant leaks: If the pump primary weep passage is plugged, coolant may come from the secondary weep passage and collect in the valley of the engine. The coolant will eventually run out the back side of the engine (Fig. 39) and (Fig. 41). Leakage from the secondary weep passage may give false indications that core plug(s) may be leaking on the back side of the engine block. If this condition is found, clean the primary weep passage of debris.
4.Impeller rubs inside of cylinder block.
5.Excessively loose or rough turning bearing.

NOTE: It is normal for the water pump to weep a small amount of coolant from the primary weep hole (black stain at weep passage). Do not replace the water pump if this condition exists. Replace the water pump if a heavy deposit or a steady flow of engine coolant is evident from the primary weep passage (Fig. 39) and (Fig. 40). This indicates a shaft seal failure and pump must be replaced. Coolant may leak from the secondary weep passage and fill the valley of the engine (Fig. 39) and (Fig. 41). If this condition is found, clean the primary weep passage of debris. Be sure to perform a thorough analysis before replacing water pump.

INSTALLATION - 2.7L

1.Clean all sealing surfaces.
2.Install water pump and gasket. Tighten mounting bolts to 12 Nm (105 inch lbs.).
3.Install timing chain guides, timing chain, and timing chain cover.
4.Reconnect negative battery cable.
5.Fill cooling system.

https://www.2carpros.com/kpages/auto_repair_manuals_alldata.htm

We are not too far apart. I am near Pittsburgh. Regardless, I happy to have helped you. Let us know if you have questions in the future.

This is a common problem with more inexpensive pumps, what brand are you using?

What's the problem here? Overheating! You cannot do a compression test on the radiator-but a cooling system pressure tester will-

A cooling system pressure test will help locate any external coolant leak, do you have coolant loss problems?

No sure of the size, but a bit of advice, get them from the dealer if possible. Getting them elsewhere gets a bit shaky.

For instance, if those O-rings have caused enough problems on enough vehicles, then a parts store might carry them OR if you take the O-ring into the parts store they may have one which fits "pretty close" (you won't know until you've installed it and crossing your fingers hoping it doesn't leak, actually works). So to avoid all this. Dealership! It not very expensive, about $2 here. Hopefully the same or less where you are.