Air conditioner not working

Tiny
BLANKET00
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 65,000 MILES
Air conditioner works on and off when it works everything is cold as ice Freon level is perfect and pressures are perfect when compressor is engaged had it checked by a shop I have a code of p1598 ac pressure switch voltage to high cant find a cause other than computer being bad problem seems to occur at the hottest parts of the day around 1100 am thru 430 pm after that I have yet been able to recreate the issue I am looking for maybe some way of troubleshooting it or maybe you might have had this issue and know the fix for it as guessing and just replacing parts for this system is extremely costly thanks in advance for your time and energy in this matter and feel free to contact me if you need anything further
Thursday, June 12th, 2008 AT 2:07 PM

39 Replies

Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
This sounds like a simple overcharged system lets check the high side reading by using this guide. Should be no more than 275 psi on the high side.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/re-charge-an-air-conditioner-system

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Thursday, June 12th, 2008 AT 2:23 PM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Sounds like the high side cutout switch. On high side line there is a switch that when the high pressure gets too high it cuts off the compressor to avoid damage. So the switch could be bad giving you the code but I think there maybe another problem. You are loosing AC in the hot part of day so what is happening is cooling fans are not working or a restriction to air flow across the condenser or an inefficient radiator. The freon is retaining to much heat and the high goes up switch does it"s job shuts off comp.

Hope this helps

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-air-conditioner-not-working-or-is-weak
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Thursday, June 12th, 2008 AT 2:27 PM
Tiny
BLANKET00
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Sounds like a good idea to test the high and low switch now here is the issue with that there is only one switch that I can see on my system it is on the high side inches from the condensor and it has 3 wires and is also not shown in the haynes repair manual wiring diagrams
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-1
Thursday, June 12th, 2008 AT 5:19 PM
Tiny
RAJEN522
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Were you able to figure out what was causing your ac problem? Mine had too much Freon in it.
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Saturday, July 19th, 2008 AT 9:38 AM
Tiny
BLANKET00
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Found out that the problem was the control panel inside the car replaced it with a new one problem went away. Dealer item btw 130.00 bucks too it sure beat the items the repair shop told me I needed they said it was junk in my system from a failing compressor so I would need the compressor, expansion valve, dryer receiver, and a system flush 650 is what he said I like the 130 better hope this helps you
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Saturday, July 19th, 2008 AT 3:26 PM
Tiny
RAJEN522
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Oh great thank you so much! I will call the dealer on Monday!
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Saturday, July 19th, 2008 AT 4:43 PM
Tiny
BSFYK2
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Thanks to blanket00. AC was on sometimes, then blew hot air. I bought a used control panel on EBay and now the AC works great!
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Thursday, August 6th, 2009 AT 11:15 PM
Tiny
CHARMEDLIFE
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
  • 2002 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 61,000 MILES
Hi,

I just bought a used Sebring, and soon discovered that the A/C only blows cold some of the time. On some trips it runs cold, then when I stop the car and get back in (like when I am running errands), it blows hot. It is always one or the other, never both on the same trip. Dealer did EVAC recharge and changed a switch (I don't know which one), neither of which solved the problem. I am going to take it back in, but would like some direction first. I live in the dessert, and it is awful w/out A/C. Thanks for any help you can give!
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Tuesday, August 6th, 2019 AT 2:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Hi charmedlife,
No A/C in the desert ouch!
Somethings to have checked
radiator operation and condenser blockage ie. Debris
cooling fan operation are they on when you have a warm air experience?
Have high side pressure checked so it is within limits
also high side cut out switch maybe defective
weak AC clutch can disengage when it gets to hot.
The dealer my not be your best bet. Look for an independent shop that specialises inAc repair and is A.S.E. Certified. Hope you get this resolved
Thank you for donation
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Tuesday, August 6th, 2019 AT 2:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
EROSE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 2.7L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150 MILES
The ac gets cold as long as the car is sitting still but as soon as u give it gas the ac blows hot air also the comp will stop and then start when you rev the motor up also it the car is sitting at idle it gets cold but as soon as you take off it gets hot then if you stop it will start to cool til you take off again. I have drained the freon out and refilled it and still does the same thing need help.
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Tuesday, August 6th, 2019 AT 2:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
This may be a blend door problem or module problem. Try pulling fuse 11 inside car with key on for 60 seconds that may reset it. If it continues to have the problem have it scanned as it may be a hvac control module or body module problem. A local pro will have to do this. You might also try checking ground near center of dash for hvac control.
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Tuesday, August 6th, 2019 AT 2:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BRANDY.LACHNEY
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 CHRYSLER SEBRING
Air Conditioning problem
2002 Chrysler Sebring Automatic 99000 miles

My air conditioner blows cool for only a few seconds and then blows warm air for a minute or so then repeats the same cycle. When it blows cold it is very cold, but it doesnà  à   à   t last. Any suggestions? Also, I was told something about going out on high pressure and I am clueless to what that means. I can't say I trust the source. Just curious if anyone has had a similar problem and how it was solved.
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Tuesday, August 6th, 2019 AT 2:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Could be freezing up due to air and moisture forming ice to block off the orifice tube, get it vacuum out and see what happens
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Tuesday, August 6th, 2019 AT 2:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DRBUZZ0
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
  • 2001 CHRYSLER SEBRING
Six cylinder front wheel drive automatic 104,000 miles.

I have the Limited Convertible model. Recently I noticed the A/C was not providing any cold air.

I went to my local auto parts store and picked up an air conditioning recharge kit, which has the bottle of refrigerant and a gauge. When I hooked it up and followed the instructions, I found that the needle on the gauge was in the "danger" area really high pressure on the low pressure side of the A/C system. So obviously it was not lacking the refrigerant.

I suspect that maybe the clutch on the compressor is not engaging. I am not sure how to troubleshoot this though.

I did check the relays and they are all fine.

What would be the next step? I want to first figure out whether it is the actual air conditioning system or an electrical problem that is causing it not to kick on.
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Tuesday, August 6th, 2019 AT 2:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
Do you have the electrical knowledge and equipment to troubleshoot an electrical circuit by reading a wiring diagram if you had one?
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Tuesday, August 6th, 2019 AT 2:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DRBUZZ0
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Yes. I do. I just do not have the wiring diagram so I have no idea where what goes where.

I did some additional investigating today. I found the wire that connects to the compressor clutch and I assume that this is supposed to activate it. When I connect a DMM to it and read the voltage from the wire to the ground, it shows zero. When I turn on the air conditioning, it also shows zero. I would assume it is supposed to be +12 when the AC is on. So I may be narrowing the problem.

I do not want to do anything without knowing that it is not going to cause damage, but I was thinking that perhaps I could figure out if the compressor and clutch are okay by just hooking up a test lead to the plug on the compressor and connecting it directly to +12 volts (with a fuse just in case) and if it causes the compressor to engage and the AC system to kick on, then I will know the problem is not with the compressor.

Is this a good/safe idea?
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Tuesday, August 6th, 2019 AT 2:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
Yes, that is fine for checking the compressor. You may find this circuit is a bit more complicated than you may be expecting. This system has a three wire pressure sensor that feeds a varying voltage back to the PCM so it can make decisions on the compressor and cooling fan operation.
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Tuesday, August 6th, 2019 AT 2:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DRBUZZ0
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Alright. I connected the A/C clutch control to +12 and it seems to have engaged the compressor. The compressor seemed to kick on, and the pressure on the low pressure side of the system went down, although it still stayed pretty damn high. It went from about 110 psi to 80 psi, which is still in the red area of the gauge I have. (Which I admit is not the best piece of equipment, it came with a recharge kit)

Also, I feel no cold air coming out of the vents.

So now I am starting to think maybe there is a blockage? Unless there is a valve or something that is not opening.

Is it possible that the reason the compressor will not engage is that the pressure sensor is sensing that something is blocked or something and that is not allowing it to come on?

Someone told me I should try letting most the refrigerant out of the system and then re-charging it. That does not really seem like such a great idea, but I am not sure. Anyway, it is not the ozone depleting type, so I guess I do not have to feel bad about that if I do.
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Tuesday, August 6th, 2019 AT 2:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
If you want my honest opinion, you should not be touching this car at all. Air conditioning diagnosis is a lot harder than everyone thinks and a lot of damage can be done to the system very easily. You do not have the equipment needed to do this. You absolutely cannot diagnose this system with that toy gauge. You need a set of professional gauges that read both high and low side to even get started and then you will need a recovery and recharge station. Even if you had all this, you do not have the basic understanding to recognize a serious problem and that can be dangerous.
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Tuesday, August 6th, 2019 AT 2:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SLYICE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2001 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 121,200 MILES
My Air Condition randomly shut off especially on trips over 45min. Some time just shutting off the engine is enough to get the air condition to work other times it need to cool off. Recently had it service and now it works even worst the air comes out randomly cold to cool and some times even a little warm and I am still having the random shut off issues. Before the service the air always came out freezing when it was working. Mechanic said he check system and put a 1lb and a 1/2 or coolant.
When it shut off the interior air condition light will begin to blink. Any suggestion would be appreciated.
Thanks
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Tuesday, August 6th, 2019 AT 2:52 PM (Merged)

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