1997 Chrysler Sebring NO P codes? but a generic ignition co

Don't worry about code 12. In your case it means start of diagnostic. Just worry about code31. You need to check your entire vacuum system, starting with EVAP canister, EVAP solenoid, leak detection pump, and all the way to the EGR valve.

How do you check those? Any special tools? I did replace the egr valve. My model doesn't come with the LDP. But would the evap problem cause the stalling when it starts warming up? It don't stall at all while on the throttle. Just when stopping and idling. Thanks for the help.

You do have LDP. It is behind right front wheel splash shield. You need to check voltage at the connector, and listen to the solenoid turning on.

And yes, EVAP problem will cause problem after warm up. You won't feel any issue with throttle up, but as you slow down and at idle, you will feel erratic rpm to a point of stalling.

I don't recall you checking vacuum lines. You should do that. Also the EVAP solenoid.

Sorry, forgot to include the LDP connector to ID. Your body style is FJ22.

What is DTC mean? You also mentioned the LDP. I do have the haynes repair book. It says that the 97 didn't come with it. Is the book wrong? I haven't done much under the hood but listen and sniff around. Thanks for all the information too.

DTC simply means Diagnostic Trouble Code.

As for the LDP, I don't know who is right or wrong. I was following Mitchell On Demand description. After your last post, I pulled out my Chilton manual 20320 and started snooping around. Page 4-8 did say that Sebring and Avenger coupes (off Mitsu Eclipse) do not come with LDP. To check for leaks on these models, you have to use a hand-held vacuum pump attached to the vacuum hose nipple on the throttle body. But at page 4-42, it shows that 96-97 Sebring and Avenger coupes do have LDP on the vacuum diagram. What does your Haynes manual say?

But regardless, just get yourself a hand-held vacuum pump, and start the engine. The vacuum should remain level for 10 seconds. If not, your system leaks.

My book says my year doesn't have one. But like i said i'm not for sure. But thanks for all your help! this has been the best website i have found!

Let me know what you find out checking for leak.

Ok so i checked my IAC valve and it was dirty as heck. So i just bought a new one. At first it was doing good. Warmed up and drove around for a few with no problems. Didn't stall or anything. The next day i drove more and it stalled yet again. I was reading about my TPS in my haynes repair book and it says i have to take it somewhere so they can adjust it. Is that right? Can I adjust it myself? As for the EVAP problem I still haven't gotten to it yet. I figured I'd take it somewhere to have a complete check on the car this coming weekend since no one could do it this past weekend. Any ideas as to the adjusting of the TPS though would be very helpful. Thanks in advance.

You can clean the TPS with some carb cleaner. Just make sure that the pintle is not protruding out when you re-install.

Thanks for the info. I'll try that in the morning. I'm also going to get all new vacuum lines for it too while I'm doing that. I'll update ya tomorrow after work. Thanks once again for the info. You've been a BIG help! Also while I'm thinking about it. My oil indicator on the dash says always reads below normal unless I'm on the throttle. The oil level is correct though when i check the dip stick. Thanks again in advance for any help.

About your oil indicator, it is quite possibly the sending unit is not quite up to par after all these years. You have both oil level sensor and oil pressure switch. They look like this. Oil level switch (oil pressure gauge)

Oil pressure switch

what is the pintle?

Circled.